review of shampoo hair formula

Hello all, 

So I have couple of problems.
I have created a shampoo for all recipe as described below:
30g cocobetaine (asm 30%)
3,5g SCI (asm 84%)
2g decyl glucoside (asm 50%)

1g preservative 
1g fragrance 
2g keratin proteins 
1g polyquat-7

to 60g distilled water. 

The first major problem is the dilution of SCI. At first I tried dilution in water. Never worked. Then I put the mixture of 30g coco and 35g SCI in boiling water bath and blend with a coffee mixer and it started to dilute. However, I had to change that coffee mixer to a high intensity blender, which helped the situation but it created a massive foam. HELPPP
 Do I leave the mixture in water bath and SCI will dissolve in cocobetaine as time passes or do I need to use all these kinds f blending ways?

Do you think is best to use another anionic surfactant and get it over with? 
My current available options are Texapon SLES and SLSA. 

The second issue is regarding the liquidygel-like effect that I want to create. 
Do you think that the addition of proteins and polyquat at that amount, will make a difference or should I use a different approach?

The mix of surfactant blend gives me a 13% ASM in total of the final product so I thought this is good for all hair types.. 
generally, what do you think of my recipe. 

p.s. I try not to use a lot of ingredients. 

Thank you all for taking the time to read it!
Hope I find my answers here!!! 


  • Solubilizing SCI can be tricky. With those amounts, try stirring gently over a water bath with no blending. It should become smooth with a little time. 

    If your current batch has lathered too much, the foam should subside in a day if you just leave it. 

    For thickening, formulas with CMPB can usually be thickened with a bit of sodium chloride (table salt). Try adding 1% to the water or finished product and see how you like it. 
  • Thank you #seaberry for your answer. I have read in many books about sodium chloride but there are some articles with shampoos counting sodium chloride with low stability. That was the main concern- I would like my batches to have a year shelflife.
  • Yes, thickening with NaCl can be hit or miss depending on the formula. You may want to explore polymeric thickeners like acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer or some type of carbomer (many cannot thicken lower than pH 6 or so), but these may also require neutralization with an alkaline substance as well. 

    Seeing that you have quats in the formula, I imagine you want at least some conditioning properties? In that case GuarCat (INCI: hydroxypropyltrimonium guar gum) may be a good option to add conditioning and thickening properties. 
  • @chemistgr1 If quantities in your formula are based on 100g, then 1g (or 1%) or fragrance could be a bit too much, specially for skin irritation; also, if your fragrance is not so soluble, it'll not be solubilized properly and impair your stability. Regarding keratin proteins (which I believe are hydrolyzed proteins), I wouldn't add them in a shampoo since they will have little chances to do interact with hair fibers. If you don't mind using SLES, then replace your SCI with it, and you'll see the benefits in foaming, detergency and viscosity of the SLES-CAPB mixture. As @seaberry mentioned, acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer help both stabilize and thicken your surfactant system, just keep in mind that the order of addition has to avoid direct interaction between your thickener and your PQ-7. 
  • I realized I missed something! I mistakenly assumed your surfactants were all cationic-compatible. SCI is anionic and is not compatible with GuarCat, which I mentioned above. 

    Hope you find a thickening system that works for you!
  • hello there again!!

    So a little update!! I replaced the SCI with a different sulfate free surfactant SLSA and we recalculated the shampoo formula. 
    So I thought to post my current formula here to tell me what you think:

    SHAMPOO TO 100g
    slsa 13%
    cocobetaine 10% 
    decyl glucoside 2%
    preservative 1%
    fragrance 1% 
    keratin proteins 2%
    polyquat-7 1%
    water 70%

    Cleaniness is good. 
    It is not transparent- it turns to a white-type product probably because of the powder SLSA. but color is not my main issue here.. 
    The issue is viscosity. It turns out very liquidy... 

    Do you think I should replace the polyquat-7 with crothix and which percentage?

    Thank you for the help!
  • I didn't mention the process. I first warm water up to 40degrees celsius. Then I add the SLSA until it is fully dissolved. Then add cocobetaine stir. Then decyl glucoside- stir. And then the other ingredients one by one. 

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    At what point in the process does it become non-transparent?
  • it becomes not transparent at the beginning when I dilute the powder slsa to water. 

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Ah, then your statement "...I add the SLSA until it is fully dissolved" is not correct.  If you don't get a clear system, then the SLSA is not fully dissolved.

    Just for clarification...what do the initials SLSA stand for?
  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - SLSA

    Do you think that using this surfactant mixing with water, the end result must be clear??? 

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    edited November 4
    SLSA is only soluble in water 3.5%. So, if you want a clear, stable system or to get it to fully dissolve, that is the maximum percentage you can use.
  • ok I haven't had this info before. So I have to recalculate the formula and add an extra anionic surfactant ? to get asm 13%. 

  • this is very valuable information thank you so much for sharing! 
  • which other anionic surfactant would you recommend? SCI didn't dissolve in my previous formula.  :s :(
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    I would recommend Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate since they work the best and are the least expensive. I'd also get rid of the Decyl Glucoside since it isn't a particularly good surfactant for hair.
  • thank you Perry! 

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