Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Direct-pour stick formula cracking during cool down

  • Direct-pour stick formula cracking during cool down

    Posted by caro on September 25, 2020 at 9:39 pm

    Hello, I am formulating a facial serum stick that is packaged in a twist up, plastic, round, deodorant-style stick component. The component and formula are meant to be direct-pour, but in a lot of the units that I am pouring, the product looks cracked through the clear inner cap. Is this a pouring temperature issue? I know the wax is on the lower side, but the formula feels great so I would like to keep it as close as possible, and not sure that this would cause the issue of it cracking during cool down? My formula is below.

    MARULA OIL
    22.95%
    CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
    4.59%
    JOJOBA SEED OIL
    9.18%
    AVOCADO OIL
    9.18%
    ROSEMARY CO2
    0.42%
    TOCOPHEROL
    0.04%
    SILICA MICROSPHERES
    4.59%
    CANDELILLA WAX
    4.59%
    BEESWAX
    2.92%
    JOJOBA ESTERS 70
    2.75%
    ROSEHIP SEED OIL
    22.95%
    RASPBERRY SEED OIL
    4.59%
    BLACK CURRENT OIL
    6.88%
    ORGANIC BULGARIAN ROSE
    0.16%
    HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM OIL
    3.79%
    RADISH PIGMENT
    0.26%
    POTATO PIGMENT
    0.15%

    Thank you!

    EVchem replied 3 years, 6 months ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    September 26, 2020 at 12:49 pm

    @caro I can’t see clearly, but the surface doesn’t look so smooth, but a bit grainy. I’m not familiar with silica microspheres, so I’d suggest to make a test without them (maybe the level is too high). I’d also do another test increasing the amount of waxes 50%. 

  • EVchem

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 4:18 pm

    What temperature do you pour at? Do you do any controlled cooling or just let it cool naturally? 

    Building off ketchito, you could swap those microspheres for Aerosil 200 (silica), unless your particle size is already less than 200 m^2/g

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