Stay In Mask For damaged hair.

EmnaEmna Member
edited August 29 in Hair
Hi everyone,

I hope you can help me with my subject.
So i m a new formulator, and i work with "organic" ingredients, i know some people have different opinions regarding organic and some think these are just for marketing purpose... but that is not the subject for today,

The main subject that i want to discuss is what ingredients can bring the hair back to its "nature" ? I want to bring structure and life to damaged hair , i don't aim to straighten a curly hair or to make it look silky, just make it "healthy".

Damaged hair as per my definition : subject to environment damage, heat styling, lost of moisture, high porosity and super negatively charged cuticles..

Im trying to formulate a hair mask with cationic surfactant "Aminosensyl HC" and some hydrolized proteins in an O/W emulsion... thinking that this would help the damaged hair to regain its shape and i have tried to apply this on hair samples but it didnt do much...

The pH is between 1-2 i think cationic surfactant attach better when the pH is low..

This mask supposed to be used as leave on for couple of hours in a dry clean hair and just rinsed off with water.

Here is my formulation:
Distilled water Up to 100%
Glycerine 5%
Cocoglucoside 20%
Natural chelator PA3 0.1%
Aminosensyl HC 10%
Brassica alcohol 5%
Coconut oil 8%
Lexfeel natural 3%
Shea butter 2%
Panthenol 1%
Baobab protein 2%
Quinoa protein 1%
Spectrastat G2N 1%
Rose EO 1%

Can anyone help me with this? Thank you.

Comments

  • alan123alan123 Member
    edited August 29
    PH1? I dont think you should do this.. for your safety.

    I am not an expert but having ph1 on your skin..face and scalp..you can loose your hair and have serious problems with your skin.
  • EmnaEmna Member
    alan123 said:
    PH1? I dont think you should do this.. for your safety.

    I am not an expert but having ph1 on your skin..face and scalp..you can loose your hair and have serious problems with your skin.
    Hi Alan,
    Thank you for your comment.. I dont know why i wrote 1-2 it is 4-5 pH it is a mistake ..
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @Emna - Since you are a new formulator the first thing you need to do is to set your expectations. 

    "what ingredients can bring the hair back to its "nature" ? I want to bring structure and life to damaged hair , i don't aim to straighten a curly hair or to make it look silky, just make it "healthy"

    The reality is that there are NO ingredients that can bring back your hair structure. Damaged hair is damaged and there are no chemicals you can put on hair that will repair that damage. 

    Hair is a dead fiber. It is no more alive than a shoelace or the fibers used to make your clothes.

    This is how you can think about it. Imagine you have a blouse or t-shirt and it gets a hole in it (damage). There is no liquid or chemical that you could pour onto that hole to fix it. You may be able to take needle & thread and close the hole but that is much more complicated than dunking it in a liquid, and even sewing it doesn't actually "bring it back to its nature."

    The BEST you can hope for is that you can coat the hair with a thin, smooth film that makes hair look, feel and behave in a way that it would if it weren't damaged. The best ingredients to achieve this goal are silicones like Dimethicone.

    But if you are following a "natural" formulating strategy your choices are less effective and more limited.  The proteins do have the potential to form a film although since these ingredients are water soluble, when you rinse your hair you'll lose much of the film. You might experiment with other hydrolyzed proteins.

    Coconut oil will penetrate the fiber slightly so that can help improve the fiber flexibility.  Lexfeel may give a decent feel but some people may find it heavy on hair. Plus it might make hair fibers stick together. So will the Shea Butter.

    In my experience Panthenol has no positive impact on hair. It's a humectant and since you've got glycerin in there, you will see no additional benefit from panthenol.  In the cosmetic business, panthenol is used only as a claims ingredient & no benefit is ever expected from it. Raw material suppliers will tell you a different story, but I know many formulas on the market right now use panthenol at levels of 0.1% or less because it's expensive and has no real, noticeable effect.

    Of all the things in this formula, your quat will be the main conditioning ingredient. The one you have chosen is not a particularly good one (in terms of performance). You would have a more effective product if you chose something like Stearalkonium Chloride or Cetrimonium  Chloride or even Behentrimonium Methosulfate.

    Finally, you don't have to leave the mask on for hours. Leaving it on your hair longer won't actually improve the performance. Quats bind to damaged proteins immediately upon application. Oils also spread on the fiber pretty much immediately. The "mask" piece is simply a gimmick that makes people feel like they are doing something special.

    Ultimately, you have to decide what type of formulator you want to be. Do you want to make products that perform the best? Or do you want to make products that align with your personal beliefs while compromising performance?  It's really  up to you. 

  • EmnaEmna Member
    @Perry - Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my post. 
    Thank you for all these informations now i kind of know from where the stickiness of hair come (Lexfeel Natural which supposed to be a silicone replacement)..

    I want my product to be effective! i wanna see REAL results. 

    I can confirm that the natural ingredients are not much and not super effective as i want them to be.. but i try to include them in the formula as much as i can..

    Lets say if i mix Aminosensyl Hc + Emulsence HC, OR Aminosensyl + PCA glyceryl Oleate ,would that be more effective or same result..? 

    If also i include a penetration enhancer as sunflower lecithin? would that help out the ingredients like amino acids to be attached to the hair?

    Regarding the proteins i have a variety as: wheat, soy, corn, silk, wool, quinoa and baobab... i thought the more the molecule is small the more it can adhere to hair thats why i choose quinoa and baobab.. what do you recommand?

    My final request is, the mask should be applied on dry hair or wet hair? i think wet hair can attach more + charges to it when no water in there...? and then to not loose the effect wash it only with water rather than shampoo it ..?

    Thank you for your help and time.
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