Transfer-free matte formula advice needed

Hi, I've been in the shadows on this forum for a few months now - first post. I have found it hugely informative so thank you ! I want to make my own lipstcks and have made easily 70 shades. 

I am in particular trying to make a matte lipstick. While I have had some success, it is not matting the way I want. Below is the formula I have with varying pigments.

Coconut oil - 7.5g
Avocado oil - 9.3g
Castor oil - 9g
Shea butter - 2.5g
Beeswax - 8g
Glycerine - 1g
Isododecane - 5g
vitamine E - 0.25g

I use approx 7.7g of pigment which incudes titanium dioxide, micas, FD&C lakes etc and some kaolin clay (1.5g)

I have used varying degrees of pigment to make it liquid and mattify but it seems to only matte when mixed thick and even then it transfers alot. It looks like a stain at this point but doesnt really matte.

Can you please help me review this formula and advise what to add or reduce to get the lippies to matte better (dry and transfer free)? All advice is much appreciated !

Thanks in advance !


  • EVchemEVchem Member
    I'm not a color cosmetic person, but maybe add silica (aerosil 200) to get the matte effect?
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Aside from castor oil I do not see a pigment dispersant in here, and castor is not a very good one, plus it is the glossiest component there. Could be your problem. Add a low refractive index dispersive ester, and EVchem steered you well with the silica suggestion. That will not only mattify but help maintain the physical integrity.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited August 20
    Not a colour person either, just learning, but pretty sure that fumed silica although is worth adding won’t make the product matte. What is needed here is a specific film former. I tried this one and it’s very matte even when oils with high refractive index are used:
  • Thank you very much chemicalmatt, evchem and ngarayeva001! Input so much appreciated. I think I'll try the film former becasue at the moment the forula is holding but just needs a little more of a firmer. If novatext can make it matte then I'm good. Thank you very much !
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