Does anyone have experience with polyglyceryl esters such as TEGO Care PBS 6 or Dermofeel NC, PP, PS, or G10 LW?
I'm playing around with these and am interested in possible tweaks and perks. Most of all, monoesters with >5 glyceryl units such as TEGO Care PBS 6 and Dermofeel G10 LW are very low viscosity and upping it works as far as I've observed only by either adding a gelling agent (I don't appreciate their feel that much) or mixing with co-surfactants which result in liquid crystal structures aka alpha-gels defying the main 'logic' behind these emulsifiers. I wonder if there's another strategy to increase viscosity/cushioning/richness of creams made with these ingredients as main emulsifiers.
I'd also like to combine an alpha-gel builder (Dermofeel NC or PP) with co-emulsifiers and am looking for some uncommon or less obvious co-emulsifiers. I've tried hydrogenated lecithin and the usual suspects glyceryl monoesters, glyceryl stearate citrate, fatty alcohols, fatty acids (real bad soaping), and sodium stearoyl lactylate (medium soaping) with 'success' but, from an experimental point of view, these are rather boring.
Another issue is soaping... I know the usual strategies and they work but maybe there's some special trick with polyglyceryl esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate?
I like low energy processing such as cold and hot-cold processing, PIT, and D-phase emulsification. Anyone using polyglyceryl esters in such a way?
Thanks for sharing your observations and personal insights!
PS I'm formulating by preference with ingredients from renewable resources, I'm not going to use PEG-derivatives for obvious as well as sentimental reasons, and silicones are only second choice.