Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Vitamin C Amitose cream turn a little brownish, Stability problem help

  • Vitamin C Amitose cream turn a little brownish, Stability problem help

    Posted by pattsi on July 12, 2020 at 12:02 pm

    Hello, everyone.

    I have problem with my vitamin C cream. this year it turned a
    little brownish with an acidic smell after a long summer with Covid-19 situation
    and had to be kept in the warehouse, consistency is still intact, no aeration seen.
    It didn’t happen last year.

     

    It is a cream consistency emulsion, in a double-walled
    airless pump dispenser to keep it from light and air.

    LOI:

    Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Glycerin,
    Polymethysilsesquioxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Saccharide Isomerate, Spent Grain
    Wax, Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , EDTA, Dimethicone, Argania
    Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate,
    Licorice Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol,
    Sorbic Acid

     

    This product I don’t know the exact % of the ingredients. Only
    details I know are pH 5.5 and Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate is 0.05% because I requested
    it to be.

    It was initially proposed to me as 0.2% of Caprylyl
    2-Glyceryl Ascorbate + 3% of Niacinamide but I cut Niacinamide out because I didn’t
    want any risk of interaction even if they say it can be used in combination and
    dropped Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate from 0.2 to 0.05 to be claim ingredient.

     

    1.My primary guess is Vitamin C. the problem might be due to
    long storage time in high temperature 40-43 C or more in warehouse.

    2.pH might not be 5.5 as I reread LOI and didn’t see pH adjusting
    agent. Will have to check with the lab.

    3.preservative problem? Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol,
    Sorbic Acid? Shouldn’t it be Phenoxyethanol/Caprylyl Glycol/Sorbic Acid?

    4.or is it have to be used together with Niacinamide? I searched
    and found products with Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate. They have Niacinamide. And
    they are not in airless pump.

     

    1.Deionized WaterGlycerinNiacinamideAcetyl
    Glucosamine
    Butylene GlycolAloe Barbadensis
    Leaf Juice
    EthoxydiglycolPhenoxyethanolTriethylene
    Glycol
    Imidazolidinyl
    Urea
    AllantoinDipotassium
    Glycyrrhizate
    TrehaloseSodium CitrateCaprylyl
    2-Glyceryl Ascorbate
    Centella
    Asiatica Extract
    Sodium
    Hyaluronate
    Citric AcidPrunus Yedoensis
    Leaf Extract

     

     

    2. DI Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Aloe
    Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Methyl  Methacrylate/PEG/PPG/PPG-4/3 Methacrylate
    crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethnol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate,
    Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone
    Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate,
    Turmeric Root Extract, Disodium EDTA, Lactic Acid, Cl 47005  

     

    I searched through the forum and found Amitose was mentioned
    once by @EVchem and I couldn’t find much through google. I want to gather information as much
    as I could before going to discuss with the formulator. my knowledge in cosmetics
    chemistry is very basic can only make simple emulsion and anhydrous
    gel.

     

    Any suggestion is appreciated. Thank you.

    pattsi replied 3 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • EVchem

    Member
    July 13, 2020 at 4:10 pm

    If you are using 0.05% of the vitamin C derivative I wouldn’t initially suspect that. Licorice extract can brown over time. 

    To make sure I understand, how old is the formula  in question? Do you mean products that have sat in a warehouse for 2 years are browning? Or that a new batch put in this summer has browned?  Storing at 40 C or even just inconsistent temperatures you can expect discoloration, possibly separation. 

    I haven’t used that specific amitose, I used a different kind in the series

  • pattsi

    Member
    July 14, 2020 at 6:49 am

    thank you @EVchem

    it’s a new batch made in the end of February and kept in warehouse about 4 months.

    EVchem said:

    If you are using 0.05% of the vitamin C derivative I wouldn’t initially suspect that. Licorice extract can brown over time. 

    To make sure I understand, how old is the formula  in question? Do you mean products that have sat in a warehouse for 2 years are browning? Or that a new batch put in this summer has browned?  Storing at 40 C or even just inconsistent temperatures you can expect discoloration, possibly separation. 

    I haven’t used that specific amitose, I used a different kind in the series

    I will make note about Licorice extract too. thank you
    I will sort a temp-controlled warehouse. 

    Thank you very much 
     

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