Vitamin C Amitose cream turn a little brownish, Stability problem help

Hello, everyone.

I have problem with my vitamin C cream. this year it turned a little brownish with an acidic smell after a long summer with Covid-19 situation and had to be kept in the warehouse, consistency is still intact, no aeration seen. It didn’t happen last year.

 

It is a cream consistency emulsion, in a double-walled airless pump dispenser to keep it from light and air.

LOI:

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Glycerin, Polymethysilsesquioxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Saccharide Isomerate, Spent Grain Wax, Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , EDTA, Dimethicone, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Licorice Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid

 

This product I don’t know the exact % of the ingredients. Only details I know are pH 5.5 and Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate is 0.05% because I requested it to be.

It was initially proposed to me as 0.2% of Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate + 3% of Niacinamide but I cut Niacinamide out because I didn’t want any risk of interaction even if they say it can be used in combination and dropped Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate from 0.2 to 0.05 to be claim ingredient.

 

1.My primary guess is Vitamin C. the problem might be due to long storage time in high temperature 40-43 C or more in warehouse.

2.pH might not be 5.5 as I reread LOI and didn’t see pH adjusting agent. Will have to check with the lab.

3.preservative problem? Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid? Shouldn’t it be Phenoxyethanol/Caprylyl Glycol/Sorbic Acid?

4.or is it have to be used together with Niacinamide? I searched and found products with Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate. They have Niacinamide. And they are not in airless pump.

 

1.Deionized WaterGlycerinNiacinamideAcetyl GlucosamineButylene GlycolAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceEthoxydiglycolPhenoxyethanolTriethylene GlycolImidazolidinyl UreaAllantoinDipotassium GlycyrrhizateTrehaloseSodium CitrateCaprylyl 2-Glyceryl AscorbateCentella Asiatica ExtractSodium HyaluronateCitric AcidPrunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract

 

 

2. DI Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylyl 2-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Methyl  Methacrylate/PEG/PPG/PPG-4/3 Methacrylate crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethnol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Turmeric Root Extract, Disodium EDTA, Lactic Acid, Cl 47005  

 

I searched through the forum and found Amitose was mentioned once by @EVchem and I couldn’t find much through google. I want to gather information as much as I could before going to discuss with the formulator. my knowledge in cosmetics chemistry is very basic can only make simple emulsion and anhydrous gel.

 

Any suggestion is appreciated. Thank you.


Comments

  • EVchemEVchem Member
    If you are using 0.05% of the vitamin C derivative I wouldn't initially suspect that. Licorice extract can brown over time. 

    To make sure I understand, how old is the formula  in question? Do you mean products that have sat in a warehouse for 2 years are browning? Or that a new batch put in this summer has browned?  Storing at 40 C or even just inconsistent temperatures you can expect discoloration, possibly separation. 

    I haven't used that specific amitose, I used a different kind in the series
  • PattsiPattsi Member
    thank you @EVchem

    it's a new batch made in the end of February and kept in warehouse about 4 months.
    EVchem said:
    If you are using 0.05% of the vitamin C derivative I wouldn't initially suspect that. Licorice extract can brown over time. 

    To make sure I understand, how old is the formula  in question? Do you mean products that have sat in a warehouse for 2 years are browning? Or that a new batch put in this summer has browned?  Storing at 40 C or even just inconsistent temperatures you can expect discoloration, possibly separation. 

    I haven't used that specific amitose, I used a different kind in the series
    I will make note about Licorice extract too. thank you
    I will sort a temp-controlled warehouse. 

    Thank you very much 
     
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