Shea butter to Softisan 378 ratio

PVPPVP Member
My Shea butter based balm becomes grainy in summer. To prevent this from happening, I am considering Softisan 378. Let’s say, the formulation contains 100g of Shea butter. How much Softisan 378 would I need to offer oxidative stability to Shea butter. Thanks in advance :smile:

Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    If your balm becomes grainy, it has nothing to do with oxidation. Softisan 378 doesn't protect anything from oxidation, anyway.
    Store your balm at a cooler place or rework its composition. To prevent it from oxidising, add an antioxidant.
  • PVPPVP Member
    edited June 29
    @Pharma
    Let me rephrase my question/problem. What can I do to prevent shea butter from going grainy when the finished product softens and solidifies in summer? I have reformulated the recipe with different amounts of shea butter and even at the lowest quantity, it gets grainy. 
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    Not possible. "Softens and solidifies in summer." Stop it doing that and you'll be OK.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Reformulate so it doesn't get too soft, make a cream instead of a balm, or buy an A/C ;) .
    Allegedly, mango butter instead of shea butter helps too because mango butter is said to not 'grain'.
  • PVPPVP Member
    @Belassi
    Thank you. It makes sense.  I will reduce shea butter and increase the wax and see how it turns out.

    Please check this link https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Softisan-378-p/fssb30044.htm

    It says "prevents graininess with butters". What's your take on that?
  • PVPPVP Member
    @Pharma
    It remains soft and creamy at home :). The moment I take it on a trip in summer, things stop being rosy. I tried mango butter and it went grainy as well. I will reformate and prevent it from melting. 

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Or cool it fast once you come back from your trip in the sun. It requires slow cooling for grains to form and simply placing your tube/pot in the freezer might do the trick for your personal pleasure (not so much for customers, should you sell your balm).
  • Although softisan is a nice material it alone won’t stop a balm from getting  grainy. It’s much more complex than adding just one ingredient. You probably have too much of shea butter. And it has nothing to do with summer. 
  • PVPPVP Member
    edited June 30
    @ngarayeva001 I use 6.5g shea, 5.6g castor wax, 10.6g almond oil, 2.9g zinc oxide and 2.9g of arrowroot. The total weight is 28.5g. Should I reduce Shea butter to half or quarter of what I use at present?
  • In this case, it's zinc oxide clustering, not even shea butter. What is the purpose of this product?
  • PVPPVP Member
    @ngarayeva001, I tried it without the zinc oxide and it still went grainy. The purpose of this product is to ease diaper rash.
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    In that case use about 25% aloe vera.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited June 30
    In this case, cut shea butter to 15% max and add 5% of softisan. There’s no advised ratio but it might be a good starting point.
  • PVPPVP Member
    @Belassi, anything else as a substitute besides aloe vera? The product has to remain vegan and free of coconut and its derivatives.
  • PVPPVP Member
    @ngarayeva001, 15% of the whole recipe should be shea butter right?

  • BelassiBelassi Member
    aloe vera is vegan
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Belassi said:
    aloe vera is vegan
    Not necessarily Mexican aloe... that one might come with gusano de acíbar :smiley: !
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