Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Help with % in a toner

  • Help with % in a toner

    Posted by esthetician922 on June 22, 2020 at 10:19 pm

    Hi, 

    I am trying to create this toner can someone help me with some % please

    Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel)

    Water, Aqua (Water),

    Alcohol,

    Glycerin, 

    Polysorbate 20, 

    Sodium PCA, 

    Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, 

    Fructooligosaccharides (D-beta),

    Glucosamine HCI (D),

    Honey, 

    Phospholipids, 

    Commiphora Myrrha Oil, 

    Sphingolipids, 

    Hyaluronic Acid,

    BoragoOfficinalis Seed Oil*, 

    Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Oil,

    Benzyl Alcohol,

    esthetician922 replied 3 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 23, 2020 at 6:15 am

    That’s reverse engineering. It’s a paid job.

  • esthetician922

    Member
    June 23, 2020 at 5:56 pm

    Cool, cool, thanks for your help. I am trying to make a toner and just needed an idea of what a typical one looks like. It doesn’t have to be exact or even use these exact ingredients. 

  • letsalcido

    Member
    June 24, 2020 at 1:59 am

    @esthetician922 it really depends what you want your toner to do. For the most part they don’t do much, some provide super mild moisturization, astringency/matting effect, cleansing, nice smells, etc.

    Given the Witch Hazel and Alcohol being up there in the list (if you provided it in order as it appears in the label) this is probably targeted at oily/blemished skin?

    What I think:

    Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) - (30-50% based on where it is in the LOI)

    Water, Aqua (Water), (q.s)

    Alcohol, (10-30% ?, this is used as an astringent/for oil removal)

    Glycerin, (0-3%)

    Polysorbate 20, (q.s to solubilize the oils, probably 1-3% or about 5x the oils)

    Sodium PCA, (never used it, but maybe 0.5%?)

    —— Everything below 0.1 to 1% each maybe.

    Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, 

    Fructooligosaccharides (D-beta),

    Glucosamine HCI (D),

    Honey, 

    Phospholipids, 

    Commiphora Myrrha Oil, 

    Sphingolipids, 

    Hyaluronic Acid,

    BoragoOfficinalis Seed Oil*, 

    Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Oil,

    Benzyl Alcohol,

    If you’re actually trying to copy this formulation you’ll have to do your own experiments to determine the right percentages.

    Although I’m not super sure my estimates here are close. I would expect Benzyl Alcohol to be there at like 0.5% but if 0.5% HA would make the toner fairly thick I think. Maybe they’re using SLMW HA.

  • africanbug

    Member
    June 24, 2020 at 3:33 am

    0.5% HA would make the toner fairly thick I think. Maybe they’re using SLMW HA.

    @letsalcido I use 0.5% of HA, 0.25% 50kDa and 0.25% 110kDa, it doesn’t change the consistency of the toner at all, have not used the higher MW HA though..

    @esthetician922 I prefer alcohol free toner with only hydrosols no water (though if it is for commercial, blend of water and hydrosol might make more economic sense) some of the additives I use for toners are HA, niacinamide, plant and fruit extracts, glycerine @ 2% as any higher it feels sticky in warm and humid climate , eo and solubiliser and preservatives. 
    Some of my favourite hydrosols for toners are geranium, thym linalol, peppermint, melissa

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    June 24, 2020 at 9:31 pm

    I’ll second @ngarayeva001, but add for your benefit: you have too much going on in there for a skin toner. This formula chassis is overpopulated. In skin-care formulation often less is more.

  • esthetician922

    Member
    June 24, 2020 at 9:46 pm

    Thank you @letsalcido
    I will experiment with those percentages! Super helpful. The toner is super emollient so I am not sure what type of alcohol they are using because it’s not dehydrating at all. hmmm. 

    Thank you @africanbug for the recommendations. 

    @chemicalmatt I figured there was too much in there. I am happy to “tone” it down, no pun intended haha. 

  • esthetician922

    Member
    June 24, 2020 at 11:27 pm

    Also, I got some clarification. The alcohol is just part of the witch hazel comp so I am guessing maybe 14%. It’s not anything added extra. 

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