Shampoo Formulation

SusieSusie Member
Hello, I am new to understanding shampoo formulations and would like some insight. The more I'm learning, I find that I'm paying attention to shampoo ingredient lists out there in the market. I have curly hair, so I prefer sulfate-free options for more frequent washes, though I still use sulfates on the side when I want a good clean.

Here is an ingredient list to a sulfate-free shampoo that is sold in stores:

"WATER (AQUA), INFUSED GINGER ROOT OIL, DISODIUM COCOAMPHOTDIPROPIONATE,  SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE (SULFATE FREE CLEANSER), COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE ( COCONUT CLEANSER), CITRIC ACID, ANISEED OIL, RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL, PHENOXYETHANOL ( PRESERVATIVE), SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE ( COCONUT CLEANSER), POLYQUATERNIUM - 10, DECYL/LAURYL GLUCOSIDE ( SUGAR BASED CLEANSER), GLYCOL DISTEARATE ( VEGETABLE DERIVED), GUAR CHLORIDE, ESSENTIAL SCENT"

What I want to know, is how does a formulation like this work. Having the oil so far up on the ingredient list, doesn't that compromise the cleansing action of the surfactants? I would gladly love to know your input.
Thank you.

Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member
    Things like this ingredient list are just a lot of smoke and mirrors. Analysed:
    INFUSED GINGER ROOT OIL marketing bs
    DISODIUM COCOAMPHOTDIPROPIONATE primary surfactant
    SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE primary surfactant
    COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE secondary surfactant
    CITRIC ACID pH adjustment
    ANISEED OIL marketing bs and possibly fragrance.
    RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL marketing bs which reduces the efficiency
    PHENOXYETHANOL ( PRESERVATIVE),
    SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE primary surfactant
    POLYQUATERNIUM - 10 a cationic conditioner and thickener
    DECYL/LAURYL GLUCOSIDE primary surfactant
    GLYCOL DISTEARATE pearliser
    GUAR CHLORIDE some kind of cationic gum, also used for thickening ESSENTIAL SCENT some kind of EO which should be listed, so IMO this label does not comply with US requirements.

    The italics are all the surfactants. There is a clue also. First, all these surfactants. It is highly unlikely that the company developed such a mixture. Secondly, decyl/lauryl glucoside? This tells me that's part of a commercial blend.
    It is almost certain that the surfactants are either just one commercial blend or two blends mixed. Probably the CAPB is added separately. I could likely track down what blends given a half hour on UL Prospector.
    Sulphate free / sulphates, no difference at all provided the formulation is done for a specific hair type.
    The things I listed as marketing BS are exactly that. No effect at all or a negative (undesirable) effect.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    The ingredients list does not comply with labelling requirements as the fragrance is listed as "essential scent".

    It is also likely that they are also in the incorrect order.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    edited June 10
    @Susie:

    When you see a product with an LOI like this, you should always be skeptical since it is not labeled in compliance with FDA labeling guidelines.

    Now, if it would have said:  Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Coconut Cleanser derived from Green Baby Coconuts hand-picked by monks in Thailand and processed by dancing elephants) ... that you count on!
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • SusieSusie Member
    Thank you all for your input!
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    If the oil as listed is in the proper order then this shampoo wouldn't work. Or at least it wouldn't foam and clean very well. 
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