Foam stabilizer in presence of sebum

We make a Shampoo, the foam is good but for oily hairs foam almost completely disappears. When we Shampoo for second time then it foams well. 
It is %10 active surfactants
%4 lauryl glucoside
%3 decyl glucoside
%3 CAPB

What are some good foam boasters and foam stabilizers in presence of sebum or another surfactant that has stable foam against sebum to add in small amount? 
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Comments

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Try Cocamide MIPA or Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.  But, the problem would appear to be that your formula is quite light on total surfactants at only 10%.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    It's hard to beat SLS for foaming.
  • @Abdullah ;

    Mild conditioning agents such as polyquats and guars will improve foam stability, as will the use of a thickener.

    Oil is an antifoam - it is added to all sorts of production processes such as alcohol production and washing of vegetables to supress foam levels. From that perspective, any additional oils in the formula such as fragrance or conditioning oils will also reduce foaming ability.

    As mentioned above by Mark, you do also have low levels of surfactants. In the US / Europe, surfactants tend to make up around 10-12% of the formula. Generally people with dry/curly African and Brazilian hair types prefer 4-6%, but they don't expect much foaming ability and rely more on cationic surfactants for a more gentle cleanse and high conditioning. What hair type are you targeting?

    Also, have you accounted for solutions in your percentages? For example, CAPB is usually supplied as a 30% solution, so if you have used 3% of that then you may only have 1% active CAPB.
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    @klangridge thanks 

    I use Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine %1. How does it effect foam? 

    Don't have vegetable oil but %0.5 glyceryl oleate and %0.3 sweet orange essential oil. What to add instead of fragrance oil to give it smell but not reduce foam?

    I will increase the active surfactant to %12 and see.

    They are all as active surfactant. It is %10 CAPB which is %3 active
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    @MarkBroussard thanks 

    Cocamide MIPA is not available here. 
    Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, Cocamide methyl MEA, Lauramine Oxide is available. Which one is better to use?

    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is very expensive. If we add in high quantity cost will increase a lot. If we add in small quantity how would foam compare to above surfactants?


  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    @Perry thanks 
    Yeah it is hard to beat SLS or get near that with this formula. But consumers demand sulfate free and other than Glucoside and CAPB all other anionic surfactants are very expensive.
    So how can we enhance and stabilize the foam of Glucoside/CAPB in an inexpensive way?

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @Abdullah:

    Use Cocamide MEA if it what you have available.  But, your problem is still that you simply do not have a high enough surfactant load ... going from 10% to 12% will not change much at all.  If your costs bear it, go from 10% to 20%.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    @MarkBroussard ;

    %20 active surfactant of Glucoside is very drying for hair as my experience. 

    I would purchase some cocamide MEA and see what it does. 

    Will cocamide methyl MEA be the same as cocamide MEA as it is liquid and easier to use? 
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