How to add fragrance oils to lotion

How to incorporate in the formula? Do I need to mix the fragrance with any surfactant before adding to the cream? 

I have tested a bunch of fragrances. And i am trying to test the stability now. I have just added the fragrance oil to the cooled lotion. I had a problem with a fragrance..the oil came to the surface but I suspect it is because I did not mix well.

I mixed fragrance oils with Polysorbate 80 and I can see it is well for now. 2:1 ratio with no incidents for now. I have checked other formulas and I noticed a mix of Poly 20 + 80 but I don't have %tages

Ph ranges are: one product has PH 4, most of the products are between Ph 5-7, and one has Ph 8.

I have purchased fragrance oils from a fragrance house but I did not receive any guidance from the supplier (one week since I sent the inquire email)

 Many thanks

Sample formula face cream

Peg 100 + GMS

Steareth 21


Vit E Antioxidant

Jojoba Oil

Alkyl Benzoate C12-15

Cetyl Alcohol

Isopropyl Myristate

Myristic Acid




Sepimax Zen

Siligel( Xanthan Gum)

Hyaluronic Acid Blend

Vit C Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate


Sodium PCA

N-Acetyl Glucosamine


Disodium EDTA


Hydrolysed protein





  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    That cream should hold fragrance well if mixed in well. With many (but not quite all) creams it's advantageous to homogenise again once cooled down, the perfect moment to incorporate fragrances.
    Tween 20 & Tween 80: Adjust ratio to match HLB of product ;) .
  • alan123alan123 Member
    Thank you @Pharma Do you think
    1% Fragrance oil
    1% Tween 20
    1% Tween 80

    would be good? (adjusted to match hlb)
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    As said, I think 1% fragrance oil should be good (if it smells good).
    I don't know why you want to add each 1% of the two Tweens... you mean a total of 2% with appropriate ratio? How should I know! If it were intended for addition to plain water, then it may not be enough but for your cream it is likely too much (as said, about 2% too much). Every fragrance/essential oil has a different requirement regarding the amount of needed solubiliser. In addition to that, you don't need a transparent solution because you mix into a cream... which also contains enough emulsifiers and stuff to handle fragrance oil without any issue if homogenised well. (Hope you get the point :wink: .)
  • Pharma said:
     With many (but not quite all) creams it's advantageous to homogenise again once cooled down,
    Just curious....doe it matter which emulsifier you use?  I thought I had read something about the lamellar types did not like high speed homogenization....late in the cool down phase?  Something about destroying the structure?  Just trying to that the (but not quite all) exception?
  • Pharma said:
     the perfect moment to incorporate fragrances.

    If I am adding fragrance to a lotion....late in cool down, and the emulsion does not like high shear....late in the cool simple stirring...good enough to incorporate a fragrance oil?
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