Non aqueous gel

Hi there,
I am trying to create a face serum with no water.
Only Silicone and Oils. 

My challenge is to create stable emulsifier / thickener. 

Do you guys have any direction? I am thinking about lecithin. The usual polymers(sepi's) won't hydrate without water.


  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Check THIS out. I think the products by Ajinomoto sound really cool though I've never tried them.
  • If oils are non-polar and you are looking for a clear product you need either micronised silica or silica dimethyl silylate.
    This one works with silicones
  • alan123alan123 Member
    Thank - I found a source for Silica Dimethyl Silylate. I will try to find more options
  • EVchemEVchem Member
    I've used oilkemia 5S with pretty good success (INCI Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), though the feel was about what I expected from an oil gel- could have been my lack of silica and poor oil combo.
    The ajinomoto stuff does look awesome but you have to heat it very high
  • Just keep in mind the thickening effect depends on polarity. The product I mentioned won't thicken polar ester but will work with silicones and some hydrocarbons. Much worse with non-polar esters.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    edited May 6
    +1 for the Ajinomoto gelatinisers, they work in a huge variety of solvents
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • alan123alan123 Member
    It is a bit complicated to find Ajinomoto stuff however I will receive soon 1. Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
    and 2. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

  • alan123alan123 Member
    I received today from makingcosmetics silicone gel Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer

    After mixing with other silicons and oils including mineral oil looks like a bad product 
  • If you're using dimethicone at a significant percentage you could simply use a higher viscosity grade - they go up to 100,000+ cSt
  • dimethicone + Cyclopentasiloxane had the 'best' outcome. thanks
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