Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Non aqueous gel

  • Non aqueous gel

    Posted by alan123 on May 4, 2020 at 1:47 pm

    Hi there,
    I am trying to create a face serum with no water.
    Only Silicone and Oils. 

    My challenge is to create stable emulsifier / thickener. 

    Do you guys have any direction? I am thinking about lecithin. The usual polymers(sepi’s) won’t hydrate without water.

    alan123 replied 3 years, 7 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • pharma

    Member
    May 4, 2020 at 6:43 pm

    Check THIS out. I think the products by Ajinomoto sound really cool though I’ve never tried them.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 4, 2020 at 9:30 pm

    If oils are non-polar and you are looking for a clear product you need either micronised silica or silica dimethyl silylate.
    This one works with silicones https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/818/235792/Covasilic-15

  • alan123

    Member
    May 5, 2020 at 11:35 am

    Thank - I found a source for Silica Dimethyl Silylate. I will try to find more options

  • EVchem

    Member
    May 5, 2020 at 11:53 am

    I’ve used oilkemia 5S with pretty good success (INCI Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), though the feel was about what I expected from an oil gel- could have been my lack of silica and poor oil combo.
    The ajinomoto stuff does look awesome but you have to heat it very high

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 5, 2020 at 8:45 pm

    Just keep in mind the thickening effect depends on polarity. The product I mentioned won’t thicken polar ester but will work with silicones and some hydrocarbons. Much worse with non-polar esters.

  • bill_toge

    Member
    May 6, 2020 at 7:47 pm

    +1 for the Ajinomoto gelatinisers, they work in a huge variety of solvents

  • alan123

    Member
    May 9, 2020 at 3:53 pm

    It is a bit complicated to find Ajinomoto stuff however I will receive soon 1. Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
    and 2. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

  • alan123

    Member
    July 14, 2020 at 4:55 pm

    I received today from makingcosmetics silicone gel Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer

    After mixing with other silicons and oils including mineral oil looks like a bad product 

  • LincsChemist

    Member
    July 15, 2020 at 2:17 pm

    If you’re using dimethicone at a significant percentage you could simply use a higher viscosity grade - they go up to 100,000+ cSt

  • alan123

    Member
    August 22, 2020 at 11:07 am

    dimethicone + Cyclopentasiloxane had the ‘best’ outcome. thanks

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