Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Polyethylene wax substitutes for cleansing balm?

  • Polyethylene wax substitutes for cleansing balm?

    Posted by DeedeeUkulele on February 28, 2020 at 4:04 am

    I’ve been working on a cleansing balm that uses 5% polyethylene wax (Jeenate 5H) and a combination of cetyl ethylhexanoate and other esters. It’s got a great texture-silky, dry, and doesn’t leave any residue upon rinsing off. This is my initial formula since I noticed most cleansing balms use polyethylene.

    However, I’ve recently decided to stay away from microplastics so polyethylene is out. Non-polyethylene cleansing balms on the market primarily use synthetic wax, but I don’t have a local supplier for it. My questions are:

    1. Why do the majority of cleansing balms on the market use polyethylene? What exactly does it do that other waxes/butters can’t?

    2. Any suggestions for polyethylene alternatives based on the first question?

    Some alternatives I’m considering:
    - Cetyl esters (have to order overseas)
    - Microcrystalline wax + Ozokerite wax

    HAL49 replied 1 year, 8 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Sponge

    Member
    March 2, 2020 at 9:29 pm

    Polyethylene is a great all-around structure enhancer. To choose waxes effectively you really need the background with regards to crystallinity, oil absorption, melt point, syneresis, etc. I don’t have this background. Based on my base level knowledge I’d say go with microcrystalline/ozokerite with the larger proportion starting off as microcrystalline. 

  • DeedeeUkulele

    Member
    March 3, 2020 at 5:52 am

    Sponge said:

    Polyethylene is a great all-around structure enhancer. To choose waxes effectively you really need the background with regards to crystallinity, oil absorption, melt point, syneresis, etc. I don’t have this background. Based on my base level knowledge I’d say go with microcrystalline/ozokerite with the larger proportion starting off as microcrystalline. 

    Much appreciated! From what I’ve learned, ozokerite contributes firmness and higher melt point, while microcrystalline helps with oil bleed and stability. A lot of LOI’s I’ve come across have ozokerite way below microcrystalline wax so your suggestion is spot-on. Thanks!

  • michaelpolymer

    Member
    July 29, 2022 at 3:47 am

    the wax in the cleansing balm is a strature agent, you can choose beeswax plus sunflower wax to be more natural. PE wax and ozokerite are not sustainable ingredients,marine pollution. Many PE wax suppliers change the PE INCI to synthetic wax due to the microplastic issue。。。

  • HAL49

    Member
    July 31, 2022 at 8:06 pm

    I think also that polyethylene is easier to rinse-off than traditional waxes , as these waxes will tend more to form a film

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