Ritamulse SCG Advice

shawnhebertshawnhebert Member
edited November 2014 in Formulating
INCI:  60% Glyceryl Sterate, 25% Cetearyl Alcohol, 15% Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

I came across this emulsifier and I liked the description that it gives a talc-like, silky feel.  Product info says it can be used at 2% to 10%, although the few example formulations I've been able to come across all use it at 8%.  I find using it at 8% creates a too thick cream, even as I lower the cetyl alcohol and stearic acid amounts in an attempt to reduce the thickness.

Currently I use Lanette N, INCI:  90% Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol and 10% Sodium Cetyl Stearyl Sulfate at 5% for a cream that has a 17% oil phase, which creates a nice cream that's between a lotion and a too thick cream.

I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the Ritamulse, and if using lower than 8% will create an unstable emulsion?

Many Thanks
Shawn

Comments

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    What oils are you trying to emulsify and what is the HLB of the blend of oils you are using?  Ritamulse would have an HLB of 8.1.

    If it's too thick, just eliminate the additional thickeners that you're adding in:  Cetyl Alcohol and Stearic Acid and cut the Ritamulse down to 6%.

    Experiement!
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Let me elaborate a bit here on Ritamulse:

    You have two high HLB emulsifiers (Cetearyl Alcohol HLB 15.5 and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate HLB 14.0) blended with Glyceryl Stearate HLB 3.8.  At the ratios given in the mix, the HLB of Ritmulse would be 8.1.  I don't think you necessarily need any additional emulsifiers for this mixture to form a stable emulsion, provided that the HLB of the mix of oils you're using is close to 8.1.

    As opposed to simply using it at 8% like the other formulations you have seen, refer to the formulation guidelines from your supplier of Ritamulse and see if they recommend any co-emulsifiers or stabilizers that they know work in tandem with Ritamulse to add stability to the emulsion.

    As for the thickness of your cream, try ^^^^^
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Hi Mark

    The HLB of my oil phase is 8.5. 

    Experimenting is the fun part, so I have no problems tinkering with the formulation.  My concern was that would the experimenting be a waste of time if this particular emulsifier didn't remain stable if using less then the 8% I keep seeing in every example formulation.

    I didn't even think of contacting the supplier to see if they have any recommendations, so thanks for that advice.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    My pleasure Shawn.  It may be something as simple as adding Xanthan Gum at 0.2% to stabilize the emulsion using lower percentages of Ritamulse.  I use Olivem 1000 and that is exactly what the supplier recommended to add stability to the emulsions.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
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