Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Bubble clay mask formula

  • Bubble clay mask formula

    Posted by steamedrice on February 27, 2020 at 4:56 am

    Dear all,

    Just a regular pharmacist learning new things re: cosmetic formulations!

    I recently looked into clay mask formulation and came across a Korean brand that offers a ‘bubble clay mask’ first time Ive ever heard of it.

    Below is their LOI:
    Water, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Disiloxane, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Coco-Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids, Laminaria Japonica Powder, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, Undaria Pinnatifida Sporophyll Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine, Hexylene Glycol, Cellulose Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Decylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trehalose, Butylene Glycol, Totarol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Bioflavonoids, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Canola Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Betaine, Ascorbic Acid, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Raffinose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycine, Glutamine, Lysine, Cysteine, Arginine, Inositol, Histidine, Dimethicone

    I have a few questions if anyone can please help me understand,
    1) Which ingredient(s) in this product can cause the bubbling when mixed with water?

    2) Why do they add so many different solvents/penetration enhancers eg. Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Hexylene glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylpropanediol. 

    My guess is that they use it to dissolve some of the natural oils in the product?

    Theres a product called Dermosoft OMP which contains “Methylpropranediol, Caprylyl glycol” is this only used as a preservative? Or does it have multiple functions? (Eg, solvent, penetration enhancer)

    Thank you everyone! Appreciate any answers!

    alchemist01 replied 4 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • EVchem

    Member
    February 27, 2020 at 3:56 pm

    1) looks like the bubbling is just coming from surfactants- so Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Coco-Betaine, Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine (think that is it in this formula)

    2) yes all those glycols are multipurpose- solvents, penetration enhancers, preservatives or preservative boosters (they reduce the water activity)

    The oils are  held in with the combination of surfactants, and the viscosity enhancers ( the clays, the gums, the polymeric thickener)- I don’t know if the glycols contribute much on top of that, there was one article cited on the forum suggesting including glycols could actually destabilize emulsions.

  • DeedeeUkulele

    Member
    February 28, 2020 at 5:40 am

    Below is their LOI:
    Water, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Disiloxane, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Coco-Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids, Laminaria Japonica Powder, Magnesium […]

    Is that the Phykology one? The most famous bubble clay mask now is the Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask. I don’t know about the Phykology one, but the Elizavecca foams up like crazy seconds after you apply it:

    Elizavecca’s LOI: 
    Water, Glycerin, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Retinyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Arginine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide Np, Sodium Pca, Sodium Chloride, Saccharide Isomerate, Polyquaternium-10, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoate, Hexylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Limonene, Citral, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol

    It seems Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether is what makes the Elizavecca one bubble like crazy: https://labmuffin.com/how-do-bubbling-oxygen-masks-work/

    As for the Phykology mask, it doesn’t seem to foam up as much as the Elizavecca one, if at all. You can tell because they only claim to have ‘micro bubbles’ and there’s no perfluorocarbons in the LOI.

  • steamedrice

    Member
    February 28, 2020 at 6:37 am

    EVchem said:

    1) looks like the bubbling is just coming from surfactants- so Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Coco-Betaine, Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine (think that is it in this formula)

    2) yes all those glycols are multipurpose- solvents, penetration enhancers, preservatives or preservative boosters (they reduce the water activity)

    The oils are  held in with the combination of surfactants, and the viscosity enhancers ( the clays, the gums, the polymeric thickener)- I don’t know if the glycols contribute much on top of that, there was one article cited on the forum suggesting including glycols could actually destabilize emulsions.

    Thank you so much for your reply. Really appreciate it!

    So much to learn about glycols… keeps me entertained. Any good books or websites to recommend re: glycols? Thanks!

  • steamedrice

    Member
    February 28, 2020 at 6:47 am

    Below is their LOI:
    Water, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Disiloxane, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Coco-Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids, Laminaria Japonica Powder, Magnesium […]

    Is that the Phykology one? The most famous bubble clay mask now is the Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask. I don’t know about the Phykology one, but the Elizavecca foams up like crazy seconds after you apply it:

    Elizavecca’s LOI: 
    Water, Glycerin, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Retinyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Arginine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide Np, Sodium Pca, Sodium Chloride, Saccharide Isomerate, Polyquaternium-10, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoate, Hexylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Limonene, Citral, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol

    It seems Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether is what makes the Elizavecca one bubble like crazy: https://labmuffin.com/how-do-bubbling-oxygen-masks-work/

    As for the Phykology mask, it doesn’t seem to foam up as much as the Elizavecca one, if at all. You can tell because they only claim to have ‘micro bubbles’ and there’s no perfluorocarbons in the LOI.

    Yes. Its the Phykology brand.

    I recognize this Elizavecca mask! Hahaha.

    Isnt Perfluorocarbons bad for global warming…? Lol

    Thank you so much for your contribution! 

  • alchemist01

    Member
    February 28, 2020 at 12:13 pm

    @steamedrice those are hydrochlorofluorocarbons. 
    A great blog for this exact topic is: https://labmuffin.com/how-do-bubbling-oxygen-masks-work/

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