Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Sodium ascorbate

  • Sodium ascorbate

    Posted by tinas on February 25, 2020 at 10:31 am

    I added some sodium ascorbate (powder) in my eyecream (cream was about 38 degrees) after 3-4 weeks has the cream turned a bit brownish - I know it is the sodium ascorbate - is there any guidelines so the powder will not oxidize?

    tinas replied 4 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    February 26, 2020 at 2:24 am

    That’s the problem with that material.

  • lmosca

    Member
    February 26, 2020 at 3:49 pm

    Yes. You should keep it away from oxygen. 
    Which is a lot harder than you think. Chemists and material scientists spend thousands and thousands of dollars to be able to keep things oxygen free. 

    Or you could use a (more) stable ascorbic acid derivative like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (for water phases), ethyl ascorbate or glucoside (amphiphilic), ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexadecyl ascorbate (oil phase), but all of them come with complications (for example adjusting the pH, or working with enough oil phase to dissolve the ascorbic acid derivative).

    If you want to stick with sodium ascorbate or ascorbic acid then you should use a different approach. 

  • tinas

    Member
    February 27, 2020 at 2:47 pm

    thanks a lot! I have had trouble with some of the other (more) stabil derivatives - think I drop it!

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