Eyelash Serum ingredients - formulation

Would love your feedback on this ingredients deck for eyelash serum. Which ingredient, besides castor oil, promotes hair growth.


Would it be possible to formulate a more effective serum but still with only natural ingredients? 


Organic Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Organic Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Flower Extract, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Extract, Cinchona Succirubra Bark Extract, Water, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Glycerin, Honey Extract, Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Nasturtium Officinale (Watercress) Extract, Tropaeolium Majus (Indian Cress) Extract, Xanthan Gum, Coleus Forskohlii Root Oil, Carya Ovata (Hickory) Bark Extract.

Comments

  • How do you define hair growth for eye lashes exactly? The oil moisturizes the hair and prevents breakage. How does that make the eye lash grow longer?  I might be uneducated on the topic but it seems to be a marketing play perhaps. Interested in opinions. 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    None of the ingredients makes hair grow. Not even castor oil. Yes, this is just marketing. It would be illegal if it claims to make hair grow.
  • Perry, can you please tell me how some companies in the USA are getting away with illegal claims? I have been studying the marketing material of around 15 different brands, many sold at Sephora and some are definitely making illegal claims. 

    Some claims try to circumvent the rules by adding "May" to their wording. "May promote hair growth". Others do not even seem to bother with that detail. 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @Cafe33 - They get away with it until they don't.  The FDA or FTC who are responsible for policing this sort of thing only has so many resources. They usually will ignore a small company at least for a little while. It would be surprising to see a significant brand making illegal claims and being sold in Sephora. But selling online or in small stores, they can get away with that for a while.

    You really have to look at the way the claims are written. However, a lot of companies are just small brands that start up, make a batch, and sell until the FDA finds them. Once noticed, they shut down business, then start up another one. 

    The US system is set up to encourage entrepreneurship. Unfortunately, that also means it's set up to encourage people who would take advantage (knowingly or not) of a seemingly lax system.

  • As someone who has used a fair few lash serums, I can tell you the only ones that have any significant effect are the ones containing Bimatoprost. Athough even the ones containing Bimatoprost predominantly try to sell using mentions of other “natural-sounding” ingredients.
  • alchemist01alchemist01 Member
    edited February 21
    I was about to recommend bimatoprost too. It's the only thing I've ever heard of being used for eyelashes, though I don't think its effects constitute "hair growth," rather than thickness and pronounced darkness.

    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3036812/

    Your formula as it stands will probably do as well as nothing, unfortunately.
  • I was about to recommend bimatoprost too. It's the only thing I've ever heard of being used for eyelashes, though I don't think its effects constitute "hair growth," rather than thickness and pronounced darkness.

    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3036812/

    Your formula as it stands will probably do as well as nothing, unfortunately.
    Bimatoprost does lengthen the lashes too, it makes my stumpy lashes about 50% longer. It also makes dark hair grow in strange places so you have to be careful to not apply it excessively!
  • There is also this blend https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-gfnselco-specped-lash-ld
    there is some evidence although not very strong
  • GabyDGabyD Member
    edited February 21
    I wonder if it works by preventing the lash from falling out? So it just continues to grow?
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Bimatoprost is a drug active and would be illegal in a cosmetic. The pharmaceutical company Allergan I think has a patent on it and use it in their product Latisse.

    Knock-offs would be illegal drugs (if they worked).
  • AgateAgate Member
    edited February 22
    Perry is right, Bimatoprost is a drug. Its primary use is as a treatment for glaucoma, lowering the pressure inside the eye. Lash growth was only discovered as one of its side effects, which also include eye irritation and permanent dark pigmentation of the eyelids and irises.
    For your own safety and the safety of your customers, don't mess around with Bimatoprost unless you are a pharmaceutical company.
  • I've had some minor lash lengthening results in the past from RapidLash which doesn't contain Bimatoprost but contains some peptides, but nowhere near as noticeable as from Bimatoprost. The ingredients of RapidLash are:

    Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, HydroxyethylcelIulose, Octapeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Biotin, Panthenol, sh-Polypeptide-1, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract  Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed, Glycosaminoglycans, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Pantethine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sea Water (Maris Aqua), Glycerin, Rhizobian Gum, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Ethyl Acetate, Sodium Oleate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Alcohol Denat., lsopropyl Cloprostenate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid, Potassium, Sorbate, Disodium EDTA
  • Very interesting! Thank you very much
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