Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline VS Palmitoyl isoleucine (capryloyl glycine)

JPSJPS Member
in Formulating
I'd love to know your thoughts on using either or both of these actives in your formulas? I'm deciding between the two to include in an oil based formula and don't want to include both b/c it may be overkill. Both have "anti-wrinkle plumping" properties.. Dh is plant based and Pi is a naturally occurring amino acid. Both have similar % suggestions for adding in oil phase.

Have you see any measureable effects in vivo using these ingredients? 
Thoughts? 

I really appreciate anyone who takes the time to respond.
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Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Isoleucine is an essential amino acid, the palmitoyl ester is likely as artificial as dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. BTW hydroxyproline is also a natural amino acid, just not a proteinogenic one, and makes up a good part of collagen.
    Personally, I'd go with the former because I like proline... There is, honestly, no experience nor science involved in that decision.
    What's with the capryloyl glycine in brackets?
  • JPSJPS Member
    Pharma said:
    Isoleucine is an essential amino acid, the palmitoyl ester is likely as artificial as dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. BTW hydroxyproline is also a natural amino acid, just not a proteinogenic one, and makes up a good part of collagen.
    Personally, I'd go with the former because I like proline... There is, honestly, no experience nor science involved in that decision.
    What's with the capryloyl glycine in brackets?
    Thanks for the input! The capryloyl glycine is in the brackets b/c Palmitoyl isoleucine is also referred to this sometimes.

    What do you like about proline? What's your experience with using it in skincare formulations? I'm leaning towards Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline as well since it's from plant origin (marketing wise at least). I'm considering for an oil/balm.. it seems to be popular for lip products as well: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0026/8317/5001/files/sepilift_dphp_lipstick_data.pdf?3144387592381318648  |  https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0026/8317/5001/files/Technical_document_SEPILIFT.pdf?7409108524809900186


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