Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General EDTA for Anti-aging?

  • EDTA for Anti-aging?

    Posted by Cafe33 on January 23, 2020 at 9:31 pm

    We have a visiting friend who lives in Brazil and she brought over a serum and lotion which are labeled for anti-aging. Disodium EDTA is listed as the third ingredient behind Aqua and Glycerine for the facial serum and it is the second ingredient behind Aqua in the facial lotion. I cant imagine that EDTA could be used at higher level than 0.1-0.3 %. 

    Is this even allowed? 

    belassi replied 4 years, 2 months ago 8 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • jemolian

    Member
    January 24, 2020 at 10:58 am

    It’s possible if the rest of the ingredients are lesser than the Disodium EDTA. You might want to list the ingredient? 

  • pharma

    Member
    January 24, 2020 at 8:23 pm

    It’s likely in there for the only reason it’s commonly used, as chelate to boost preservation (I mean chemical and biological preservation of the product, not preservation of the user :smiley: ).

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 25, 2020 at 12:34 am

    They just messed up the LOI. I saw it many times.

  • EVchem

    Member
    January 27, 2020 at 1:02 pm

    Yeah everything after it could be at most 1%, if there are no other problems with the list. This is what keeps me up at night on reverse engineers :)

  • gunther

    Member
    January 27, 2020 at 5:21 pm

    They probably didn’t follow proper INCI rules on listing ingredients on descending order down to 1%.

    Too much EDTA will leave a powdery, white residue on skin while doing nothing useful.
    I don’t even think that being EDTA a salt, it will get absorbed trough skin.

  • Cafe33

    Member
    January 27, 2020 at 8:41 pm

    Okay so I have the full info. Website is http://www.bioage.com.bz (seems to be down?)

    Here is the INCl for the serum:

    Aqua, Glycerine, Disodium EDTA, Dimethyl MEA, Polysorbate 80, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Silanetriol, Butylene Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Carnitine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Tocopherol, Trisodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Biotin, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Sorbate, Salicyclic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Cichorium Intybus(Chicory) Root Oligosaccaharides, Caesalpiria Spinosa Gum, Gluconolactone, Parfum, Butyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Coumarin, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxyisohexyl-3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool.

    It is bizzare because everything else seems to be somewhat in order. They even list fragrance allergens as well. If they were trying to mislead with the order, wouldn’t they put Cichorium Intybus(Chicory) Root Oligosaccaharides, Hyaluronic Acid or something else that seems to be active instead of EDTA?

    Also the cream follows the same style:

    Aqua, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Caprylyl Methicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trideceth-6, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin,  Anadenanthera Colubrina Bark Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum,   Butyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool.

    They are most likely using Acqua Bio by Chemyunion http://www.chemyunion.com/en/skin-care/acquabio-1

    INCL

    Water (and) Glycerin (and) Anadenanthera Colubrina Bark Extract

    So again, I find it a little unbelievable that they would mess up the order of the INCL especially when it is not in there favor. I also find it hard to believe since they are using fairly sophisticated ingredients. I have also found some internet literature/opinions on using EDTA for anti aging.

    Anyway, very curious about opinions on this.  

  • pharma

    Member
    January 27, 2020 at 9:04 pm
    What if only water and glycerine are above 1%? It’s a serum and there’s nothing in there which requires more than 1% (except for water)… if not directly before EDTA, I’d guess the 1% line would be directly after EDTA and before DMAE ;) .
    A propos DMAE aka dimethylethanolamine: Not sure if dimethyl MEA is the correct INCI name, it’s at least not correct according to IUPAC. Anyway, this stuff is said to be good and blabla but as a salt on skin, it’s rather unlikely to do anything other than smelling like rotten fish and is likely not used to adjust or buffer pH, so why adding more than claim amounts?
  • belassi

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 1:32 am

    @Pharma: We tested DMAE. Had visible results against photo-aging spots. Now one of our anti-age components.

  • oldperry

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 2:27 am

    @Cafe33 - I don’t find it surprising that they would mess up the LOI. It was probably put together by a contract manufacturer who isn’t too worried about ingredient list accuracy. They may even just have a computer program that spits out the ingredient list. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 7:03 am

    Let me bring up another reason why it cannot be correct order. Disodium EDTA has very low solubility in water. It takes heating and a lot of mixing to dissolve 0.2%. Tetrasodium is more ‘easygoing’. There’s however an ingredient that is used both as chelating agent and marketed as polyhydroxy acid (mild exfoliant) - gluconolactone. Dissolves at very high amounts in cold water. 

  • pharma

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 1:03 pm
    @Belassi : That’s really interesting. Are you using it above or below 1%?
    @ngarayeva001 : Absolute solubility of EDTA is governed by pH, only speed of solubilisation depends on the used salt or free acid. As long as you have the right pH, you can neatly dissolve any form of EDTA at reasonable amounts (i.e. nearly up to 10% as disodium salt), it might just take a bit longer for the disodium than tetrasodium salt.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 6:22 pm

    Thank you @Pharma!

  • belassi

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 6:38 pm

    @Pharma: 2% was the trial. 

  • pharma

    Member
    January 28, 2020 at 7:25 pm
    @Belassi : Thanks!
    No fishy smell or do you mask it?
  • belassi

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 12:01 am

    No fishy smell to note.

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