HELP! Conditioner Bar

Hello Everyone!

I am a new business owner in the UK and I've been experimenting with my product for weeks now but I still can't achieve what I'm looking for. I would love to hear opinions, suggestions/recommendations from you regarding my Conditioner Bar formula:


20% Behentrimonium Methosulfate

15% Quaternium-87

25% Cetearyl Alcohol

25% Coconut Oil

10% Cocoa Butter

.5-1% DL Panthenol

1% Broccoli Seed Oil (Silicone Alternative)

.5-1% Phenoxyethanol (90% active with Ethylhexyglycerin)

.5-1% Colorant

.5-1% Tocopheyl Acetate

1-2% Fragrance Oil / Essential Oil


I find the product really good at detangling and conditioning my hair but the application is isn't as satisfying as I wanted it to be.

I use Crodazoquat (40% Behentrimonium Methosulfate, 30% Quaternium-87, 30% Cetearyl alcohol) as my conditioning agent. I have tried this on 20%, 30%, 40%, and 50% of my formula but still find it too waxy and draggy.

I 've tried tweaking with the amount of oils and waxes like argan oil and shea butter in it but still think that it doesn't apply quick enough without being too soft.

Q1: I've been looking into adding a lathering or bubbling agent, is there something I could use that would be compatible with my cationic materials and remain anhydrous (If impossible to keep the bar anhydrous, what would be the best surfactant to add)?

Q2: What amount/percentage of Behentrimonium Methosulfate would be enough for conditioner bars to emulsify and condition the hair?

Q3: Aside from the preservative, What materials am I using that are not considered ''Natural''?

Q4: Am I using the right Vitamin E as an antioxidant for essential oils in my product?

I would be more than grateful for everyone willing to help me out with this. I have been learning a lot from past discussions here and very thankful for all the knowledge I gathered; Hopefully, I could help someone else in the future.


Thanks in advance! 😘

Comments

  • I think you should include some Cetyl Alcohol in order to decrease drag. I use BTMS-25 as my base for conditioner bars and 10% Cetyl Alcohol. It also seems like you have a lot of oil and butter in your formulation. 
  • Cafe33 said:
    I think you should include some Cetyl Alcohol in order to decrease drag. I use BTMS-25 as my base for conditioner bars and 10% Cetyl Alcohol. It also seems like you have a lot of oil and butter in your formulation. 
    Thanks @Cafe33 . May I know what amount of BTMS-25 you use for a decent bar? I haven't tried using Cetyl Alcohol. Might have to replace the Cetearyl Alcohol on top of the CA that I get from Crodazoquat.
  • I use 60% BTMS-25 and 10% Cetyl Alcohol. That works out to  

    10% Cetyl Alcohol 
    15% Behentrimonium Methosulfate
    45% Cetearyl Alcohol 

    I am using ingredients that are local to me. 

    You need oils/esters that spread well and apply quickly such as Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. I use Hydrogenated EthylHexyl Olivate as my main Oil which applies very fast.  I round it off with Jojoba oil and Mango butter. I would like to use Abyssinian oil but it would not be worth the hassle of acquiring it, so I use ingredients that are local to me. The bar is very hard yet it applies product quickly. 
  • Cafe33 said:
    I use 60% BTMS-25 and 10% Cetyl Alcohol. That works out to  

    10% Cetyl Alcohol 
    15% Behentrimonium Methosulfate
    45% Cetearyl Alcohol 

    I am using ingredients that are local to me. 

    You need oils/esters that spread well and apply quickly such as Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. I use Hydrogenated EthylHexyl Olivate as my main Oil which applies very fast.  I round it off with Jojoba oil and Mango butter. I would like to use Abyssinian oil but it would not be worth the hassle of acquiring it, so I use ingredients that are local to me. The bar is very hard yet it applies product quickly. 
    Thank you @Cafe33. It's good to know that I have enough conditioning agent in my product. This means that I have to experiment with the oils and butters and perhaps add around 5% tapioca starch. Planning to add CAPB if I must.
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