Semi Soaping help face cream

JolieeJoliee Member
edited January 17 in Formulating
Hello everyone, hoping you can help me with my face cream formula. I have been trying different % for the emulsifiers and im still experiencing soaping. I added LuxGlide N350 ( dimethicone alternative) and it has helped a bit. Maybe my emulsifiers don't work together or maybe its another of my ingredients.

Formula below:

Water - 70.6%
Allantoin- 0.5%
Niacinamide - .8%
Xanthan Gum -0.2%
Propandiol - 4%
Sodium Hyaluronate/1-1.5 mil daltons - 0.2%

Olivem 1000 - 2.5%
Cetearyl Alcohol - 1.2%
Glyceryl Stearate- 1%
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides- 6%
Rosehip Seed Oil - 3%
Broccoli Seed Oil- 1%
LuxGlide N350 - .5%

Bisabolol - 0.3%
Rose Extract - 0.6%
Hibiscus Extract in Glycerin - 0.5%
Gotu Kola - 0.8%
Apple Stem Cell - 1.2%
Argirline - 3%
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - 0.3%

Amticide VAF - 0.5%
EUXYL -0.9%

The emulsifiers I have on hand are
- Olivem 1000
- Glyceryl Stearate 
- Montav 68mb
-Stearic Acid
-Cetyl Alcohol
- Cetearyl Alcohol

Im not opposed to buying a different emulsifier but hoping one of these will work since it can get pricey. I'd like to add this to a pump for sanitary purposes. 


  • I would advise getting GMS/PEG100 blend (which is very multipurpose and robust) and adding real dimethicone. You can also try knock out experiment and remove all extracts to see if it goes better.
  • @ngarayeva001Thank you for your feedback.Whats the name of the emulsifier ? I'm still new to the abbreviation . haha ! have you tried Cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 blend? 

    I have removed all extracts and kept the basic formula and its the same. 
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