Question regards Hair dye/color developer

CreatuveHandsCreatuveHands Member
edited December 2019 in Hair
I need ask some basic questions regards hair color /dyes developers , include some fashion colors like blonde, copper color,  White color etc. 

Q1, what is the difference between 20 volume and 40 volume developer,  my understanding is 40 volume developer  is use to aply color directly to hair specially fashion colors,,  like no need to cut down the original hair color.   and 20 volume is use to Common colors only?   Am I right?  Or wrong? 

Q2,  which developer volume is best for common colors and fashion colors. 

Q3, normally how much cost difference between 20 to 40 volume developers/kg. 

Q4,  is it 40 volume harmful to hair? 

Looking forward to hear useful information from forum. 


  • Hello!
    R1. Main difference is the percentage of Hydrogen peroxide content (20 vol = 6-6.5% H2O2; 30vol= 9-9.5% H2O2, 40vol = 12%H2O2). Color activator (developer) is mostly used in permanent hair dyes or bleaching formulations. The more volumes you use, the more lightening effect on hair, which means more natural color of the hair will be removed. 

    R2. It depends on the color of the hair before applying the hair dye and the color you want to obtain. You should do some tests on synthetic or natural hair tresess prior to apply on a model.  What type of hair dye do you want to apply? (temporary, permanent, semi permanent?). 

    R3. If the formula is the same except for the H2O2 percentage, then the cost/kg will be very similar since the only difference is 6% of H2O2 between 20vol and 40vol). 

    R4. Yes. but it also depends on other factors such as the exposure time on hair, the formulation (if it contains some conditioning agents will be less damage), the type of application (if is for bleaching or mixed with hair dye). 
  • Thank you so much Julieta,  very good information for me.  Very nice explanation. A Very less information have available  in online . 
    Do you know the formulation to make 20 vol and 40 vol ?. Will you share some idea with me about making of this kind developer?. 
    Also do you know about hair dye cream formulation?. 
    Waiting for your reply. 
  • BUNSEN87BUNSEN87 Member
    edited January 2
    Hello CreatuveHands!
    Yes, I know about formulation of hair dyes but I first need to know  what kind of coloration you want to formulate, do you have a benchmark? so then I will know what kind of hair coloration you are looking for and suggest a developer and hair dye base formulation.  
    If it is a temporary coloration you don't need a developer since the color coats the surface of the hair shaft but does not penetrate the cortex, so the dye is easily washed out and lasts up to 3 washes. 
    If it is a permanent coloration you will mixed developer and hair dye. then the viscosity of both formulas is important and also is the mixture viscosity. the color penetrates the cortex and to do so this coloration needs two essencial components: COLORANT (dye precursor/alkalizer/ thickening system) + COLOR ACTIVATOR (Hydrogen peroxide).  
    Permanent coloration is more tricky to formulate because of the alkalizer agent you will use, the mixture ratio (colorant+developer), the shades you want to formulate is order to stablish the volumes of the developer and ratio you should apply on hair, among others. 

Sign In or Register to comment.