Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Don’t understand what makes my cream burn

  • Don’t understand what makes my cream burn

    Posted by TheSocksTooBig on December 27, 2019 at 12:26 am

    Hello everyone, 

    Happy holidays :) . I was wondering if anyone can help me on a basic gel/cream I made for personal use. The consistency, and feel is great but unfortunately when I use it, it has a burning sensation on the skin for a good minute. Possible to help me identify what is wrong with this formulation? Have I been using too much of something that is causing irritation? I’ve had 5 people try it and they all feel mild heat/burning sensation. Really appreciate it :) 

    PH adjusted to 5.49 with lactic acid dilution

    Water 67.3

    Di Sodium EDTA 0.2

    Propanediol 2

    diPropylene Glycol 3

    Glycerin 2

    Allantoin 2

    Hexanediol CG 0.5

    Pentylene Glycol 1

    Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3

    Phase B
    % by weight

    Squalane -Sat 5

    Octylodecanol -US 2

    jojoba oil clear - US 5

    Cream maker fluid (Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, dilauryl citrate 1

    Cetyl Alcohol 1

    Polysorbate 60 1

    Phase C
    % by weight

    GelMaker EMU (sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysobate 80) 3.5

    Phase D
    % by weight

    Oatmeal Extract 1

    Phase E % by weight

    Bisabolol 0.1

    Vitamin E acetate 0.1

    Phenoxyethanol SA 1

    Caprylyl Glycol EHG 1

    Total 100

    graillotion replied 3 years, 3 months ago 7 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • jemolian

    Member
    December 27, 2019 at 2:14 am

    Using Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) gives me a warm feeling so i no longer use it. I suspect it’s the Caprylyl Glycol.

  • Even

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 3:42 am

    Phenoxyethanol &Caprylyl Glycol use 1% maybe feel warm and burn, it is too much that can irritate skin.

  • oldperry

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 3:32 pm

    Most likely Phenoxyethanol.  That’s the downside of avoiding parabens.

  • belassi

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 3:52 pm

    I really doubt it’s the caprylyl glycol. That’s a major part of the preservative we use and we’ve never had a problem.

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 3:21 am

    I’ve tested in water: 

    • 1% Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) 
    • 1% SymDiol 68 (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol)
    • 1% Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

    The only warming feeling i felt was from the ones containing Caprylyl Glycol which are Optiphen & SymDiol 68. Perhaps i’m slightly sensitive to Caprylyl Glycol? 

  • TheSocksTooBig

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 8:20 pm

    I changed the preservative, and no longer experience that burning! thanks everyone

  • Thota

    Member
    December 25, 2020 at 6:14 am

    I changed the preservative, and no longer experience that burning! thanks everyone

    Hi, Can you please let me know which preservative is feeling better for you.
    I too felt warming sensation when I used Spectrastat - it contains Capryl glycol. 

  • graillotion

    Member
    December 25, 2020 at 7:03 am

    Seems like a reasonable formula, other than the Allantoin at 2%.

    Just curious, since Allantoin is only .57%  soluble in water, are you using the other portion as a derm abrasion product?

    Allantoin solubility:

    Water: 0.57% (25 °C); ethanol (96%): 0.04% (25 °C); eth/water (1/1): 0.35% (25 °C); propylene glycol/water (1/1): 0.40% (25 °C); glycerol/water (1/1): 0.60% (25 °C)

    Or is there a better solubilizer I am not aware of?

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