Formulating for Afro textured hair

What are some of the best ingredients apart from silicones to include in formulating conditioners for textured hair types?  So far I have worked with Ashland N-hance ( cationic guar) , BTMS50 and 25, cetac and honeyquat. I have had good results using cetrimonium chloride but would prefer to not use it. 


  • I don't know much in this area at all but would be interested in learning more. I know Shea butter is a popular ingredient, not sure about performance but for marketing it's well known and received

    I've heard good things about Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI :Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate) if you can stomach the label name 
    C13-15 Alkane (hemisqualane) is another mix I've been told is another 'silicone alternative'. I doubt it performs exactly the same but could be worth a try
  • @EVchem thanks for your feedback. I have used hemisqualane in an oil blend it had a nice silky feeling but didn't seem to do anything in a rinse off conditioner. I have some Varissoft EQ 65 that I have yet to try  but hadn't heard of  the EQ 100.
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    You will get better results from using BTHC or BTMS as your cationic emulsion base than with CETAC as long as dimethicone is the oil being emulsified. Other than that, shea butter, marula oil, castor oil, sunflower oil,....."the world is your oyster" for rinse-off conditioners. I've always been a polyquternium-10 guy myself. As for hemisqualane: prohibitively expensive in my book. Too little bang for too many bucks.
  • In my opinion, cetrimonium (+ fatty alcohol) works the same or slightly better than behentrimonium / BTMS. By better I mean more detangling and conditioning.

    Quaternized silicones (like amodimethicone) usually work better than plain dimethicone.

    Polyquaternium-10 works great too. It helps with silicone deposition while it also conditions hair on its own.

    I don't know if oils are actually deposited on hair by rinse off conditioners.
Sign In or Register to comment.