Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Jojoba Esters - expensive petrolatum or something more? Cheaper natural alternatives?

  • Jojoba Esters - expensive petrolatum or something more? Cheaper natural alternatives?

    Posted by zink on December 11, 2019 at 4:14 pm

    I’ve been playing around with Jojobaesters and I have to ask, are there any benefits to them over petrolatum? Its structure is close to that of the wax esters in sebum allegedly (which makes up around 30% of sebum). 
    he cost is quite high $50/kg at 16 kg quantities.

    Floratech claims it performs about as well as petrolatum at reducing TEWL at 5x lower use rate

    But could you instead just use cetyl alcohol or some other, cheaper, ester?

    gunther replied 4 years, 3 months ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    December 11, 2019 at 7:11 pm

    Probably no performance benefits. I’m skeptical of their results but even if it is equal at 5 times the use level, if it costs more than 5 times than petrolatum it still isn’t worth using.

    Perhaps it has some aesthetic benefits. But I think you have figured out that there are less expensive ways to get those same benefits.

  • pharma

    Member
    December 15, 2019 at 11:46 am

    The TEWL curve might cap at 90% and 1% petrolatum could also show the same reduction or petrolatum simply isn’t an optimal ingredient in the used vehicle?

  • gunther

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 3:31 pm

    I’m skeptical of the results too.
    Esters, fatty alcohols or anything other molecules don’t pack together as close to each other like petrolatum does, thus not as effective as forming a tight “palisade” barrier to prevent TEWL.

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