Makeup remover

What are the essential materials for making a natural and gentle makeup remover on the skin

Comments

  • There are many different formats of makeup removers: micellar water, cleansing milk, cleansing oil, surfactant based cleansers etc. Which one do you want to make? Why natural? Synthetic materials are more gentle in most vases.
  • I heard that synthetic materials are harmful to the skin 

    Well, what is the best skin-safe material used for makeup remover

  • The most gentle materials are usually the synthetic ones. The least irritating preservatives are parabens, are the safest oil to use on new born babies is mineral oil. There’s a huge amount of disinformation in the internet, and people with zero scientific background spread nonsense and fear mongering about ‘toxic chemicals’. Always check the source.
    Having said that, you need to answer what format you are looking for, because there are many types of makeup removers. If you ask me, I prefer oil cleansers, because they remove water proof makeup. I like combination of Polysorbate 80, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and C12-15 Alkyl benzoate (as simple as just three ingredients). If you want micellar water, there quite a nice material PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides. There are many other options depending on desired format.
  • "Polysorbate 80, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and C12-15 Alkyl benzoate (as simple as just three ingredients)"
    @ngarayeva001 i found out from experience that using plant oil (about 92% sunflower oil 8% polysorbate 80) cleansing oil makes it less irritating for my eyes and less of cloudy eye feeling after removing eye makeup.

    How about your 3-ingredient cleansing oil? Does it make the eyes cloudy?
  • Almost not, also it’s quite cheap, materials are easy to find, and gentle on eyes. You can use Polysorbate 80 as the only emulsifier. I tested multiple number of other oils but Alkyl benzoate works the best.
  • Thank you @ngarayeva001. You have suggested alkyl benzoate in a different post as well and i've bought it. Just didnt have time to test it yet. Will do soon!
  • Try 15-20% of Polysorbate 80 and 80% of Alkyl Benzoate. You might also want to add some cithrol 10gtis (the PEG-20 I mentioned above) for waterproof makeup remover. Apply on dry(important) face, massage to dissolve makeup and rinse. You can add fragrance if you want. This combo also works great as blooming bath oil. Alkyl Benzoate is very useful ingredient in general. It can be used as a replacement for oils in pretty much any o/w emulsion.
  • edited November 14
    Hello @ngarayeva001 and anyone else who might see this! I'd like to jump in - I'm interested in making my own cleansing oil. My favorite cleansing balm (Botanic Farm Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet) uses PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEG-10 isostearate as the main emulsifiers. It cleanses fully and rinses away without feeling like it leaves anything behind or stripping my skin. However, I recently realized it has fragrance in it, and I've been trying to eliminate fragrance as a potential irritant (I have reactive skin and have been seeing a flare-up of issues recently). I've noticed if I leave this balm on my skin too long before rinsing, I get a bit of an irritated/warming sensation on my face, and I'd like to get away from that.

    I'd like to use those two emulsifiers (PEG-20 and PEG-10) in my formula, but I'm new to formulating and am having trouble finding a supplier for either material. Which leads to my main question:
    1. Do you have any recommended suppliers, specifically for the PEG-20/Cithrol 10GTIS? After reading your posts, I'm considering replacing the PEG-10 with Polysorbate 80, especially if it makes sourcing materials easier.
    I'm planning on making an oil blend similar to this one that contains rice bran, passion fruit, and hemp seed oils as my base. Overall, this oil cleanser was extremely enjoyable to use - it smelled like black tea, had great spreadability, and didn't sting or cloud my eyes - but it made my cheeks feel tight after use, even after applying layers of humectants and moisturizers. It made me concerned that the Cromollient SCE was either too harsh for my skin or leaving something behind (or both). 

    Two more questions:
    1. Do I not need to use a separate preservative? Are there already enough preservatives in the individual components that it's not an issue? Or is some other mechanism at work here? I never see preservatives mentioned in people's oil cleanser formulas.
    2. Do you have any suggestions for the concentration if I want to use PEG-20 as the main emulsifier in my oil cleanser? The Cithrol 10GTIS data sheet says it can be used in concentrations of 5-30%, but that's a big range... I was thinking something like 10-15%?
    If you made it this far, thank you for reading! I appreciate any help you can provide.
  • @essenceofllama, sounds like banila clean it zero. I tried to reverse engineer it multiple times but not quite successful. I know where to get Cithrol 10GTIS: https://www.theformulary.co.uk/product/cithrol-10gtis/ I agree 10-15% is more reasonable (10 if you add another surfactant)

    and here you can buy polyethene: https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/gc-polyperform (they had cithrol too but I can't find it anymore). You need 20% of polyethene to get banila's consistency.

    I can't find PEG-10 isostearate anywhere and it seems like it's crucial for the formula. I tried poly 80 instead of it but it didn't work. I think the problem is that it's too polar to work well with polyethene but I might be wrong. Try it and let us know if it works. 

    Re: preservatives, just add some Euxyl PE9010 to be safe. I must admit I don't add it to anhydrous formulas that I make for my own use and I know for sure I will use quickly, but you need it for a balm because you probably will scoop it out with wet fingers one day when you are lazy to use a spatula.

  • Guys, can anyone advise what can be used instead of PEG-10 Isostearate? This banila's formula doesn't let me sleep at night. I approached it 10 times probably. I try, fail, give up and try again after a couple of months for a year already.
  • @ngarayeva001, thank you so much! I’m going to look into buying the PEG-20 tomorrow!

    Since this is my first foray into formulating, I was planning to keep it simple - I just want to make a self-emulsifying oil cleanser. Balms sound a bit out of my league at the moment. So far, my planned formula is going to be:

    Rice Bran Oil - TBD%
    Passion Fruit Seed Oil - TBD%
    Hemp Seed Oil - TBD%
    PEG-20 - 10%
    Polysorbate 80 or PEG-10 or Other - ??%

    I’m using the Botanic Farm Cleansing Balm as a go-by because I like the way it emulsifies and rinses cleanly from my skin without leaving a tight feeling afterwards. I figured the emulsifiers were the main factor in my success with that cleanser, so I wanted to use them in formulating my own if possible. 

    Thank you for the preservative info! I’ll definitely put some in anything I plan on putting my grubby fingers into.

    I just bought the Matsuyama Hadauru Moisturizing Cleansing Gel, which uses PEG-20 and Sodium Surfactin as the emulsifiers. I’m excited to see how it compares in all of this once I receive it. Do you have any experience or thoughts on Poly 80 vs. Sodium Surfactin? Or on concentration of either in a formula like this? Also, are the materials being measured in volume or weight?

    Thank you again for your help! Good luck on your quest to formulate a cleansing balm! I may join you in the future...
  • Weight. Always weight. I run another test with different proportions yesterday. With Polysorbate 80. It works but it’s not banila..
  • It's an elusive formula...
  • I run a couple of experiments after our conversation above and managed to make something that works ok, but it's not as good as banila unfortunately.
    INCI %
    Alkyl Benzoate 30.00%
    Butylene glycol D/D (ester) 15.00%
    Mineral Oil 15.00%
    Polysorbate 80 5.00%
    Cithrol GTIS 10 10.00%
    PEG-6 caprylic/capryc glycerides  10.00%
    Polyethylene 15.00%

    PEG-6 is also sold on glamourcosmetics. This is useful material for making micellar water and face washes. It'a a non-ionic emulsifier. 

  • Thank you for sharing @ngarayeva001!

    You say it's not as good as Banila... How is it not as good? Is it the texture? Its ability to remove makeup? Does it not rinse away cleanly? Does it make your skin feel tight after rinsing?

    Also, I was thinking I might try PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate as my secondary surfactant (after Cithrol 10GTIS). Do you have any thoughts on the PEG-6 vs. PEG-7 for this application?
  • raiyanaraiyana Member
    edited 7:01AM
    I run a couple of experiments after our conversation above and managed to make something that works ok, but it's not as good as banila unfortunately.
    INCI %
    Alkyl Benzoate 30.00%
    Butylene glycol D/D (ester) 15.00%
    Mineral Oil 15.00%
    Polysorbate 80 5.00%
    Cithrol GTIS 10 10.00%
    PEG-6 caprylic/capryc glycerides  10.00%
    Polyethylene 15.00%

    PEG-6 is also sold on glamourcosmetics. This is useful material for making micellar water and face washes. It'a a non-ionic emulsifier. 

    @ngarayeva001 just curious why Butylene glycol is added? does it serve a specific function in this product, probably making it into a waterless emulsion... but why?
  • EVchemEVchem Member
    @raiyana my guess is to handle some of the stickiness of the 5% polysorbate 80
  • No guys, it's an ester INCI: Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
    It has medium polarity and works well but you can replace it with any medium polarity ester. 
  • Not as good as Banila for two reasons, 1) banila melts in hands and turns into liquid oil very quickly and this one takes some time (or pretty warm hands);
    2) Banila removes not only water-resistant but waterproof makeup and this one struggles with waterproof.
    I think the potential reasons are: 1)PEG-10 emulsifier is really important 2) my polyethylene has a too high melting point, but I don't know where to get another. This formula is quite useable to be honest, I am just extremely demanding when it comes to reverse engineering. I won't consider my product a success unless I can't tell a difference in a blind test.
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