I need Help for emulsions

Hi! I am humbly asking for your help regarding my formulation for an unorthodox waterbased pomade:

Oil Phase:
Micro Wax -  5g -  9%
Bees Wax - 5g -  9%
Ceteareth 25 - 1g - 3%
Avocado Oil - 1g - 2%
Peg 40 HCO - 4g - 7%

Water Phase:
Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate - 3g - 5%
Polysorbate 20 - 4g - 7%
Water - 30g - 55%

Fragrance - .8g - 1%
Phenoxyethanol - .5g - 1%

These are my formulations but i just cant seem to make the water and oil phases mix. I'll attach the picture.
Any insights would help.


  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @Kingsanity24 you should take a look about required hlb to make correction for your system .
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Your oil phase is about 20% and your emulsifiers make up about 20%, that's more emulsifiers than you'd usually need. Your oil phase is likely solid and may not work properly: Use less wax or softer wax and use high sheer to produce very fine droplets or switch emulsifiers to obtain a lamellar system which would work better with such high wax content. With all those PEG-based emulsifiers and a solid oil phase, your product should be super stable if/once you manage to get it to emulsify properly. How do you prepare it step-by-step?
  • @Fekher noted on this.

    @Pharma Ok. 
    I combine all the oil phase ingredients first up to 190 F until the microcrystalline wax is melted.
    At the same time in other container the water phase. Up until 160 to 170 F. Then I transfer the water phase in the oil phase whil stirring manually with a metal spoon. I do have a hand blender but it's a small batch only so i hand mix it.

    Also my ceteareth 25 have sour smell. Should i discard it?
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    A spoon? Now that right there might be the answer to your issue ;) . Use the blender in the beginning and stir at low sheer (manually if you want to) until cooled down.
    Sour smell? Not that I know how it smells but I imagine it shouldn't be sour. Ask someone else!
  • @Pharma thank you for this. I'll try to do it with a mixer at hand.

    Tho do you have suggestions on my ratios?
  • It'It's a bit frothy
  • It's a lot better now. Thanks a lot! @Pharma
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