Face Wash Viscosity Problem

Hi All-

I am formulating a face wash. I am having difficulty getting the viscosity/thickness I am seeking. I am trying to achieve a viscosity similar to J&J's Essentials Foaming Facial Cleanser. Note: I have succeeded in creating a similar formula using SLS and PEG-150 Distearate. However, I am now trying to create a similarly viscous formula that is SLS and PEG-150 free. (Yes, I understand that the formula, in its current form, includes PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-50 Shea Butter.)

The formula is below:

PHASE A
47.8% Water
10.0% Aloe Vera Gel
2.0% Glycerin
1.0% PEG-50 Shea Butter
0.5% Allantoin
0.5% Caffeine
1.0% Hydroxypropyl Methtylcellulose

PHASE B
16.0% Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate {and} Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
8.0% Cocamidapropyl Betaine
5.0% Decyl Glucoside
1.0% Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
1.0% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

PHASE C

0.5% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
0.2% Menthol
1.0% Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Oil
1.0% Phenoxyethanol {and} Sorbic Acid {and} Caprylyl Glycol
1.5% PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
2.0% Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate {and} Decyl Glucoside {and} Sorbitan Laurate (Sorbithix L-100)

In anticipating questions, I am using menthol and peppermint as a wake-up/refreshing blend. I don't have access to menthyl lactate. So, I use menthol and peppermint oil in its place.

Although the final formulation has a degree of viscosity, it is not as think as I would like (again, similar to J&J's Essentials Foaming Facial Cleanser).

Note: I began this formula using only Sorbithix L-100 as a thickener. Despite its promise of easy-to-use for difficult formulations, I do not find it as easy or as effective as AppleChem promises. So, I recently added Hydroxypropyl Methtylcellulose to the water phase. Moreover, after waiting 4 days, the foam created during formulation never decreased.

My thoughts at this time include the following:

1. Perhaps I am being too impatient in allowing the final formulation to settle (however, waiting 4 days (see above) seems more than enough time);
2. Add up to 1.0% NaCl. Though the formula is SLS-free, it is my understanding that the addition of NaCl will enhance Sorbithix's thickening. If appropriate, this may be the most cost-effective solution;
3. Increase the percentage of Hydroxypropyl Methtylcellulose.
4. Increase the percentage of Sorbithix L-100 (Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate {and} Decyl Glucosida {and} Sorbitan Laurate);
5. Change the relative percentages of current surfactants (increase CocoBetaine? Decrease sulfoacetate/sulfosuccinate blend?); and/or
6. Change/replace certain surfactants (i.e., substitute C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate for another surfactant).

Does anyone have any reactions about the above thoughts? Am I on the right track? Do you recommend starting with one potential solution? Something I haven't thought of? I am happy to experiment, but I am trying to avoid wasting too many ingredients.

Thank you, all, in advance. I appreciate any thoughts.

Matt

Comments

  • Correction of formula to include 0.1% Tetrasodium EDTA:

    PHASE A
    47.7% Water
    10.0% Aloe Vera Gel
    2.0% Glycerin
    1.0% PEG-50 Shea Butter
    0.5% Allantoin
    0.5% Caffeine
    1.0% Hydroxypropyl Methtylcellulose
    0.1% Tetrasodium EDTA

    PHASE B
    16.0% Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate {and} Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
    8.0% Cocamidapropyl Betaine
    5.0% Decyl Glucoside
    1.0% Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
    1.0% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

    PHASE C

    0.5% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
    0.2% Menthol
    1.0% Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Oil
    1.0% Phenoxyethanol {and} Sorbic Acid {and} Caprylyl Glycol
    1.5% PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
    2.0% Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate {and} Decyl Glucoside {and} Sorbitan Laurate (Sorbithix L-100)
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