Splitting Emulsion

Hi all, I'm trying make a hair conditioner with this formula but it is initially very watery, then splits before cool down phase can be added. What could I be doing wrong?   :(

BTMS 50 6%
Cetyl Alcohol 3%
Oliv-wax 3%
Cocoa butter 5%
Gendvance Hydra  (Lauryl/Myristyl Polyrinicinoleate  and Glycerin) 5%

Sodium Lactate 8%
Filtered water 62%
Aloe vera powder 200X 0.7%
Sclerotium gum 0.3%

Collasurge 4%
Hydrolysed silk 3%
Vitamin E extract 0.2%
Preservative 1%

Thank you


  • Not 100% what exactly causes it in your formula, but I  can tell what worked as a result of trial and error for me: btms is fine, up cetyl alcohol to 7%, reduce oil to less than 1%. Keep the oil phase simple: BTMS, cetyl alcohol and oil for claims and remove everything else. 8% of sodium lactate looks high and it doesn’t do much in a rinse off product, so bring down to 1% or remove. Don’t add aloe powder. Keep claim ingredients in the cool down phase at 1% all together. Should work.
  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    I would start with your basic formula (water, BTMS, cetyl alcohol and preservative) and then add things back in to determine what is causing the issue.

    My initial thoughts are that you have too many electrolytes in the formula (Aloe vera, sodium lactate etc) so I would leave them out entirely or add them at a very small amount.

    You shouldn't really need to add sclerotium gum to thicken a conditioner made with BTMS 50.
  • Ambaro87Ambaro87 Member
    edited September 2019
    Thank you so much for your help! I attempted this formula again but with the following changes, as per your suggestions. I'm happy to say I have a thick stable emulsion now. - reduced the sodium lactate - moved the aloe powder to the cool down - removed oliv-wax - uped the cetyl alcohol to 7%. However I kept the oils high as I have very dry hair that just seems to drink up oil lol, thanks again
Sign In or Register to comment.