Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

firstlightfirstlight Member
edited September 4 in Formulating
Hello,

I am trying to stabilize a silicone emulsion because it loses viscosity a bit after I make it. I don't have many options as a hobbyist in regards to silicone emulsifiers and I could probably choose a better one if I had a better selection, but alas, I don't.

I was wondering if anyone could recommend any good waxes to stabilize silicone emulsions?

Thank you!

Comments

  • There are too many inputs for w/si that can affect viscosity. Post the entire formula. What emulsifier are you using?
  • Thanks for the response!

    I was actually making a PG/Si emulsion using Lotioncrafters SE (self emulsifying) Serum.

    Esentially my formula is 5% Vitamin C, 50% propylene glycol and 45% Lotioncrafters SE Serum (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

    The emulsion is high viscosity for about a day till it drops by the next day or two but it stabilizes at this new lower viscosity. I was just wondering if their is anything I can add to the silicone phase phase to thicken it back up?

  • I noticed that material on their website but haven’t tried it. Couldn’t find much about it. General tricks for w/o emulsions: add 1% of salt to the water phase (NaCl or magnesium sulfate). Add 0.5% of magnesium or zinc stearate to the oil phase. You can also add cera bellina or HCO (wax, not peg-40 HCO). Actually you can buy materials for w/si on DIY market. Trulux sells Dow’s Formulation aid 5225 and glamoucosmetics.it sells Abil EM 90.
  • Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone was what I was thinking too... a silicone wax maybe an elegant solution?

    Trulux also sells it and I was thinking about picking it up there...
  • If you can order from Trulux, I advise to get PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, which is W/O, but works great for foundations and other W/Si emulsions in combination with Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone. They also have Dow Corning Formulation Aid 5225. If you have these three emulsifiers you can create w/si with a great texture. They all react well on magnesium stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (which is also sold on Trulux) and even Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax as thickeners. 
    Grab some phenyl trimethicone too, it's amazing for W/Si (for even better slip).
  • INCI %
    Aqua 62.80%
    Betaine 3.00%
    Magnesium Sulfate 1.00%
    Sodium lactate 2.00%
    Euxyl PE 9010 1.00%
    PG 3.00%
    Dimethicone 5 10.00%
    Caprylic/Capric 13.00%
    Magnesium Stearate 0.50%
    PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00%
    Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90) 0.70%
    Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate 0.50%
    HCO 0.50%

    This one has been stable for 3 months already (W/O are utterly unstable in general). High viscosity but light upon application, silky afterfeel and not greasy at all.
  • Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone is also sold here:
    https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/abil-em-90

    Use google chrome translate function.
  • Silicones are much harder to emulsify than oils
    The HLB system doesn't work well with silicones.

    You may wish to stick to existing formulations proven to be able to emulsify silicones.
    You may wish to consider cationic emulsions, like BTMS or Cetrimonium chloride + fatty alcohols.
  • The emulsifiers I listed above are W/Si emulsifiers. They will do the job.
  • firstlightfirstlight Member
    edited September 10
    Thanks for the info! I was referring to propylene glycol in silicone emulsion (pg/si) though not water in silicone... So I don't think that formula is relevant...
  • May I ask why pg/si?
  • the vitamin c remains stable in the pg/si emulsions...
  • I see. You might be overcomplicating it though. You can dissolve it in pure PG or propanediol and thats it. 
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