Eyeliner Drying

chickenskin

Greetings talented chemists, I have been having difficulty getting this eyeliner to dry quickly (5-10 minutes).  

This is how it’s listed on the back of the benchmark, from top to bottom.

Castor Seed Oil  (My estimate - ~15%)

Coconut Oil (My estimate - ~15%)

Grapeseed Oil (My estimate - ~4%)

Carnauba Wax (My estimate - ~3%

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Lanolin Replacement) (My estimate - ~3%)

Silica (My estimate - ~3%)

Candelilla Wax (My estimate - ~1%)

Tocopherol (My estimate - ~0.1%)

Preservative blend (Thyme, Rosemary, etc etc) (My estimate - ~1%)

Iron Oxides (My estimate - ~40%)

CI 77499

CI 77491

CI 77492

If you can could you please take a look at this INCI deck and see what you would lean on to get the dry down accomplished?  The benchmark that uses this INCI deck dries down within 5-15 minutes.  Any help or guidance would be awesome.

Thank you!

EVchem

I'm not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides

chickenskin

@EVchem

Does Grapeseed dry differently?  Thanks!

EVchem

@chickenskin grapeseed is a much drier feeling oil, it feels like it soaks into the skin whereas castor is viscous and feels like it is sitting on top of your skin 

chickenskin

@EVchem

okay awesome information to know thank you!

ngarayeva001

Can you use synthetics? I was going to say you need a film former but I don’t know much about natural ones.

chickenskin

@ngarayeva001

gotta stick to the ingredients. 

ngarayeva001

Can you share a link to your benchmark? Is it a paste or a liquid? I am not color cosmetic formulator but I made eyeliners a couple of times for my own use (mostly out of curiosity). 

chickenskin

@ngarayeva001

https://www.thedetoxmarket.com/collections/hush-dotti/products/hush-and-dotti-organic-gel-eyeliner

its a paste

Sil

EVchem said:

I'm not a color cosmetic formulator, but try lowering castor and increasing grapeseed? Try using just enough castor oil to disperse the oxides

Hi @chickenskin,
I agree with  @EVchem, in addition you can try increasing the amount of Silica that helps you with its oil absorption properties.

ngarayeva001

You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.

chickenskin

ngarayeva001 said:

You don’t have enough waxes for a paste. I think you should up it to at least 10%.

this made a brick hahaha!!  i was doing better with the lower wax but ill update once I figured out the drying by adding more silica!