Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Ascorbyl Palmitate

  • Ascorbyl Palmitate

    Posted by heraklit on April 5, 2016 at 5:14 pm

    I was thinking using Ascorbyl Palmitate at 0.1% for synergistic
    antioxidant action with tocopherol, against rancidity in creams. Now I
    think I will use only tocopherol.
    It’s an old (2002) study but very interesting:
    http://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X%2815%2930060-9/pdf

    http://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X%2815%2930060-9/fulltext

    In summary, at concentrations exceeding 100–300 μM the potential damage
    induced by the oxidant properties of AA6P probably outweighs the
    benefits of its antioxidant potential. Lower AA6P doses (3–30 μM) seemed
    to have no significant protective effect on keratinocyte viability
    although the ascorbyl group was effective in scavenging intracellular
    ROS. At higher concentrations, the lipid component promoted UVB-induced
    LPO and the formation of cytotoxic oxidized lipid compounds (Figure 5).
    AA6P may effectively protect against ROS and oxidant agents that do not
    exploit the oxidant properties of AA6P by targeting cellular lipids.
    Oxidative-stress-induced signaling pathway activation, however, which
    underlies acute and chronic skin responses to UV radiation, including
    solar erythema, skin aging, and carcinogenesis, may be negatively
    influenced by the vitamin C derivative ascorbyl palmitate.

    DragoN replied 7 years, 11 months ago 5 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    April 5, 2016 at 5:32 pm

    All I can say is, that we have seen remarkable results using trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate. I want to obtain more but Showa Denko don’t respond to my pricing requests. This thread just reminded me to try again.

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 5, 2016 at 11:14 pm

     Trehalose may solve the problem.  


    scroll down:
    EFFECT OF TREHALOSE ON THE DEGRADATION OF FATTY ACID

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 5, 2016 at 11:18 pm

    Weird….post not showing…

    Trehalose.  May solve the problem. 
  • belassi

    Member
    April 6, 2016 at 2:51 am

    Interesting, thanks. Other than mushrooms where can I get some?

  • heraklit

    Member
    April 6, 2016 at 7:21 am

    Thanks. There is a patent from 2005:  http://www.google.com/patents/EP1600496A1?cl=en  but trehalose is still not widely known.

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 6, 2016 at 8:56 am

    It has been showing up in  a lot of high end cosmetics over the last couple years.  It has not caused me any problems in any lotions or serums. Very easy to work with. No negatives that I can see there in using it. Easy to source as it is quite common. Unless “name” change wonders are at work, should be able to find it. 

    If you ever make body mists or that sort of thing, it works surprisingly well. 
    SUPPRESSIVE EFFECT OF TREHALOSE ON HUMAN BODY ODOR
    In this application, we examined the suppressive effect of trehalose on human body odor. The typical
    odor of a senior layer (odor from seniors) increases with age, especially 55 years or older. This odor
    contains unsaturated aldehydes such as 2-nonenal and 2-octenal. These aldehydes are produced by the
    degradation of unsaturated fatty acid (palmitoleic acid) in aged people’s skin. The subjects (55 years orolder) were selected from our company. After a shower, their body was sprayed with a 2 % trehalose
    solution. They put on new underwear after the spray. Twenty hours later, the unsaturated aldehydes were
    sampled from the used underwear shown in this system using DNPH-column. The trapped aldehydes
    were eluted from this column and were analyzed by gas chromatography. The results showed a decrease
    of about 70 % in odor from seniors due to the action of trehalose
    (Fig. 7). This result indicates that trehalose
    has a suppressive effect on the formation of the odor released by the seniors’ bodies. The same
    results came out with the oxidation of fatty acid. Therefore, the application of trehalose for cosmetic
    fields is expected.

    I get the impression the guys got together as a chuckle and joke to see what would happen….but then couldn’t resist to not write it up. 
    at concentrations exceeding 100–300 μM the potential damage induced by the oxidant properties of AA6P probably outweighs the benefits of its antioxidant potential

    I avoid AP completely. 
  • beautynerd

    Member
    April 7, 2016 at 10:55 pm

    @Belassi - Trehalose in reasonable quantities with international shipping http://www.swansonvitamins.com/swanson-ultra-pure-trehalose-1-lb-454-grams-pwdr 

  • belassi

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 1:30 am

    Great, thank you very much. Despite the incredibly high price of the active I am going ahead with it as a high end item, I will have to source some gorgeous high-end pots to put it in. I think airless will be best, yes?

  • belassi

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 1:40 am

    Very good, I just bought a pound of it, complete with shipping to Mexico it’s only $20. How nice to have another interesting substance on the shelf. These sweet compounds all seem to be actives (Stevia - hair growth; GL acid, hair growth; etc)

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 2:54 am

    Mexico, hot and humid depending where you are….might be a good place for Odor Control Body Mists. Go wild with the plethora of EOs for scent. May even develop a mosquito repellent Odor Control Body Mist, and get lucky like Avon did with their preservative system. 

    Add Seppic’s latest mix of Cu gluconate, Zn gluconate and Magnesium aspartate for a delightful color. Or mix that yourself for less and do some sniff tests. Make the EtOH content over 20% and call it preservative free. 
  • belassi

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 5:01 am

    Interesting concept!

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 6:38 am

    I think it would make a nice addition to a natural based line of cosmetics as the one you are developing. And….promoted as a PRE Gym work out thing as well..lol…or post for those that continue to sweat after exertion. 

    It is quite effective. 

    ;;)

    A larger bottle for at home. And a one ounce mister to throw in the gym gear bag. 
    Might  be able to promote it at your local gym. That sort of thing. 
  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 2:09 pm

    Trehalose has an amazing marketing story from Selaginella (sometimes called the resurrection plant) drying out and coming back to life.

    And there’s a fun spanish/english pun in there somewhere regarding a signature phrase from the Three Stooges, but you have to have a warped mind (like mine) to appreciate it…
  • belassi

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 3:32 pm

    When it arrives the first thing I will do is use it at 2% in my body wash product. Great!

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 5:35 pm
  • DragoN

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 6:07 pm

    Trehalose has an amazing marketing story from Selaginella (sometimes called the resurrection plant) drying out and coming back to life.


    lol….yes….but it is used in cryogenics…so…just a bit of a stretch? 

    I’ll go with the Japanese crew on this one…

    Works as  a Spray ON…not  a wash…it goes down the drain…

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