hair styling paste formula

geirigeiri Member
edited April 29 in Formulating
Hi everybody and its been a long time, lost my password and was working on my shampoo and conditioners which are ready for market in may :)) I am working on my hair styling paste now and need some help. It is too "waxy" and "fat" i want to have it more like a paste but with a good hold, like Matt Head from Fudge if someone knows that. (this is fairly good for long hair though) Also it is not strong enough(need more hold), any experts in here?  this is my current formula.  

Water                                                                                                        36,30%

clay                                                                                                           2,00%

Bentonite clay                                                                                           2,00%

 beevax                                                                                                    15,00%

CreamMakerCAT                                                                                      12,00%

Shea butter                                                                                              10,00%

Laxerolía(oil)                                                                                              5,00%

Möndluolía(oil) almond                                                                              4,00%

Andiroba oil(oil)                                                                                         3,00%

Avakadóolía(oil)                                                                                         5,00%

Grapeseedolía(oil)                                                                                      3,00%

Vítamín E olía(oil)                                                                                       0,50%

Hebeatol CG                                                                                              1,50%

Almondcoconut laura mercier type(fragrance)                                           0,70%

Samtals: total:                                                                                     100,00%


Comments

  • vjayvjay Member
    Increase clay %, reduce shea butter %, add holding material to your product.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    If you want more hold, you're going to have to put in less oily material. You might also put in some PVP
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    my former boss was one of the original chemists who worked on that Fudge product many years ago, and still had the original formula: try reducing the beeswax, and adding VP/VA copolymer and PVP K-90, and see how you go
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • elenapaunelenapaun Member
    Hi to all, I'm in my first project to develop our first product. Our customer wish for something like Fudge- Matte Hed paste or Keune -power paste.

    As product formula, Fudge paste use 
    1. Aqua 
    2. Lanolin Cera 
    3. Stearic Acid
    4. Paraffinum Liquidum
    5. Cera Microcristallina
    6. Alcohol Denat
    7. Propylene Glycol
    8. Synthetic wax
    9. Steareth-21
    10. Bentonite
    11. PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin
    12. Phenyl Trimethicone
    13. Vinyl caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
    14. Polyvinylcaprolactam
    15. Kaolin

    Likely 1% line – Ingredients below are less than 1%

    1. Phenoxyethanol
    2. Disteareth-100 IPDI
    3. Parfum
    4. Chlorphenesin
    5. Glycerin
    6. Tretrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
    7. Butylphenyl Methylpropional
    8. Benzyl Salycilate
    9. Limonene
    10. Linalool
    11. Sodium Hydroxide
    12. Benzophenone-4.

    While thinking how to formulate our paste, I was wondering why Fudge used wax in a creme style product, as PVP ( hair fixing material) should be enough?
    The next question that pop up in my mind, why clay ( I understand it s functionality as matteyfiant materials) in a cream styling product.
    The materials mixt looks like a cream styling+wax product. I know, that wax is no needed when we have hair fixing materials.

    Also, about Alcohol denat. I suppose it is part of the fixing material, as a solvent not used as principal solvent, do I got it well?

    Why brands use 2 fixing/or more  materials as one should be enough?

    Why see often benzophenone-4 ( UV filter) is hair or product protection purpose reason to use ? as a primary goal.


    Looking further to our communications and shares.


    Best regards and thanks,
    Elena
  • geirigeiri Member
    Perry said:
    If you want more hold, you're going to have to put in less oily material. You might also put in some PVP
    ok cool thx  :)
  • geirigeiri Member
    Bill_Toge said:
    my former boss was one of the original chemists who worked on that Fudge product many years ago, and still had the original formula: try reducing the beeswax, and adding VP/VA copolymer and PVP K-90, and see how you go
    Bill_Toge said:
    my former boss was one of the original chemists who worked on that Fudge product many years ago, and still had the original formula: try reducing the beeswax, and adding VP/VA copolymer and PVP K-90, and see how you go
    ok will do many thanks :)
  • geirigeiri Member
    thanks a lot for the advice all, back to the lab  :)
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    the wax is there to alter the texture of the hair, and act as a secondary fixative - lanolin wax is particularly sticky, and can be hardened when combined with microcrystalline wax
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • @elenapaun, you can't post a question in someone's discussion. Start a new one.
  • WillWill Member
    Hello @geiri!

    I was wondering if you tried to add an Acrylate Copolymer to your formula as @Perry and @Bill_Toge suggested. I think it is indispensable to add that if your goal is to get a firm hold pomade.

    On another note, although clays are a very traditional product in matte effect hair pomades, they might leave some white residue in the hair. It may also form some crumbles when spreading in your hands. One good substitute I have found is fine mesh silica (SiO2). It is quite efficient to achieve a nice matte effect and leaves no residues in the hair or hands when rubbing. Here in Brazil I use Rice Silk SN.

    All best!
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