Cetyl Stearyl alcohol

Having slightly varied results.

Should using Cetyl Stearyl alcohol as the sole emulsifier at 6 percent be enough to create a good emulsion for a moisturiser. 

I generally use 5 percent ceteareth 20- cetearyl alcohol and 2 percent stearic acid. Along with 0.5 percent xanthan gum as thickener

Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    No, not really. Try adding say 3% glyceryl monostearate.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Your problem is that Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol is not an emulsifier, it's a thickener and you only need 1% to 2%.  
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    I agree with @MarkBroussard - those are not emulsifiers. Also, it would help to know what oils are you trying to emulsify.
  • Ok, thanks for this info as it prevents me from playing around with percentages of cetyl stearyl alcohol which was the problem in the first place.

    My original list of ingredients for moisturiser was as follows:

    Water             71%
    Witch Hazel   2.2%
    Glycerin         5%
    Xanthan Gum 0.8%

    Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol   7%
    Shea Butter                1.5%
    Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7%
    Apricot Kernel Oil      1.5%
    Jojoba Oil                  1%
    Rosehip Oil               1%
    Lecethin                    0.5%
    Lexgard Natural        1%

    Vitamin E                  0.2%
    Fragrance                 0.3%

    So looks as though I will be getting rid of Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol and will try replace it with Ceteareth-20/Cetearyl Alcohol at 5% and also add Stearic Acid at 2%.  I will also bring the Xanthan Gum down from 0.8% to 0.5. Looking at the product and how it resulted I can now see (as mentioned above) how the CSA wasn't taking in the water phase as a good emulsion does as it is more of a thickener.

    Thanks for the help/info guys, always appreciated. Live and learn. 

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    You need a low HLB emulsifier as well eg glyceryl monostearate
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • I may well use glyceryl monostearate. I had Lecithin in there thinking that was my low hlb. 
  • em88em88 Member
    edited April 2019
    You need a proper emulsifer in you formula, cetearyl alcohol is not an emulsifier.
    Regarding low HLB emulsifiers, other alternatives are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan stearate etc
    If you really want to have cetearyl alcohol in your formulation, use Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (Lanette N from BASF is an example).


Sign In or Register to comment.