Mixing wax into Dimethicone for Lip Gloss formulation- help pls!

Susan1234

Hello,
Does anyone have experience with mixing wax into Dimethicone? I am trying to create a lip gloss which calls for Dimethicone 500, synthetic or regular beeswax, and shea butter as the main ingredients. I am having a horrible time getting them to mix properly. I have tried both heating the dimethicone with the wax as well as separately in a double boiler. My finished product always comes out grainy, even if I know that I am completely melting the products. They tend to melt together nice and glossy when they are warm, but as they cool they become grainy. I am trying to figure out what I am doing wrong and am looking for any help with this formulation or recommendations. I can provide more specific information if need be as well.

Thank you! 

Susan1234

Title was supposed to say WAX not was

Belassi

I suspect it is the shea butter. Try replacing the shea with the same mass of beeswax and see if it still happens. If it is the shea, try replacing the shea with cocoa butter. Is it organic shea or refined shea?

Susan1234

Thank you for your reply - it is refined Shea butter. I tried heating it up separately to the point where it is completely liquid and then mixing it in. I will try what you said by replacing it with wax. I am currently using white Beeswax beads. Any other wax that may be a better choice with dimethicone ? Possibly a synthetic?

Susan1234

I just tried this without any Shea butter - just mixing the wax and dimethicone together and it still is grainy so I have come to the conclusion that the dimethicone 500 & the wax I am using (white Beeswax) do not work together. Is there anyone that can recommend anything else ? 

Belassi

OK understood. Now, please understand that I have never created a lip balm so check with others too... 
It occurs to me that you might try a design using one of the Polytrap products. I use Polytrap 6500. It can absorb up to 70% silicone oil. See this. Then see if you can add the wax and achieve a satisfactory blend. 

Susan1234

Thank you..do you know where I can buy this ? I am a newbie in this world

Belassi

EBay

Sponge

Have you tried this formula, either from someone else or made yourself? Dimethicone is not a lip gloss base and I’d be very surprised if any wax/butter was able to change that. 

Susan1234

Yes there are two formulas - one is made by Chanel, and one is made by Senegence that use dimethicone as a base. The reason for this is bc the gloss is meant to be a topper for a long wear lip color and any of the oils most commonly used in lip gloss will break down the color underneath while dimethicone will not. Here is one example -

https://seneweb.senegence.com/us/products/lips/lipsense-gloss/lipsense-gloss/

Thoughts? 

Sponge

Really? Dimethicone (as a topper base) won’t disturb a liquid lip in real life? Interesting. 

Anyway, yeah, I think you buried the lead. Here’s the whole ingredient list you’re referencing, right?

Dimethicone, Synthetic Beeswax, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopherol, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, Propylene Glycol, Propylparaben. May Contain: Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Galactoarabinan.

I think there’s more going on than dimethicone, beeswax and shea butter. This isn’t my wheelhouse whatsoever so I’m interested in what others will say. I think the amodimethicone, octoxynol, isolaureth and propylene glycol may play a role in the texture. 

I’m not saying they’re lying, but Senegence doesn’t seem to put their full ingredients list out there. Their lip balm has water in it and nothing but oils, no emulsifier. 

Bill_Toge

amodimethicone is soluble in dimethicone and potentially soluble in wax as well: it could be acting as a co-solvent for these otherwise mutually insoluble substances