Is Polysorbate 20 sufficient?

I'm currently making a pomade/gel with Ceteareth-25, PEG-7, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20 and fragrance oil. Another version includes PVP and PEG-8 beeswax for increased hold. 
I want to add some conditioning oils like avocado, jojoba, or prickly pear. 
Would increasing the Polysorbate 20 be sufficient for the addition of the oils, or do I need to include Polysorbate 80?


  • I forgot to include DMDM Hydantoin in the ingredients. My bad.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Calculate the HLB equivalence and use a blend of Polysorbate 20 and 80 accordingly. Or you could buy the special multigrade 20/80 Polysorbate. (No, I am just joking.)
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Hold usually comes from PVP or PVP/VA polymers.
    Oils don't provide much hold and leave hair, well, oily.

    You may wish to switch to an ready-made, all-included emulsifier, as too much PS20/80 will leave hair sticky.

    Is PEG-7 = PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate?
    That will leave an oily hair too. OTOH it's water soluble so no emulsifier is needed for that.

    Why don't you hadd silicones for smoothness, shine and some mild extra hold?
  • Gunther, aren't silicones able to break the sticikness and promote less stickiness- like, anti-foamers, as an example?
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