Stability ? Leave in detangling conditioner spray

Nthabi_joyNthabi_joy Member
in General
Hi Everyone.
Apologies in advance if this post is too long. I am in need of you help please. I have been toying with a sorayable leave in conditioner for quite a while now and although it feels great in the hair, the stability is the issue as it always separates.

This is my starter formula(which I tweaked this morning and will share results below)

Phase A
Water         80%
glycerine     2%
Cetrimonimum chloride 1%
Phase B
Crodazoquat MCC   4%
isoamyl laureate        1%
Lexfeel N5.                1%
Olive oil water soluble 2%
Phase C
goat milk hydrolysate.  1%
keratin.                         1%
Dpanthenol.                  1%
slippery elm.                 1%
marshmallow root.        1%
bamboo biofermment.   1%
floral fragrance.             1%
versatil BOB.                  1%
citric acid.                       1%

This formula didn’t emulsify. It separated and obviously unstable.
This morning I tweaked the formula a little in the following way:
Added cetearyl alcohol at 2%
Added Cetyl alcohol 1%
Reduced water to 77%

this made a very nice formula that appears stable and it has been 3hours now. However it thickened it considerably and its now like a thin lotion (which is great except I have to use a lotion pump and not a spray pump). This little accident reminds me of a Combing Cream and I shall keep this formula to make a Damage Repair cream or a Moisture cream. But the question still remains how to inmake a spray leave in detangler that is stable.

I’d appreciate any advice, input or thoughts to make my formula more stable.... I’d like a spray that hydrates, softens and detangles


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Comments

  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited January 2019
    Too many ingredients. Water, cetrimonium chloride, polyq 7 or quat 80, preservative, fragrance and solubilizer will do what you want. I would say polyquat 10 but that won’t spray. If you want to make it even better add amodimethicone. Keep crodazoquat for a creamy consistency product.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    you can add all of that fairy dust (keratin, milk, panthenol) for claims, but keep it below 1% all together (not 1% each).
  • Nthabi_joyNthabi_joy Member
    ngarayeva001 said:
    you can add all of that fairy dust (keratin, milk, panthenol) for claims, but keep it below 1% all together (not 1% each).
    ngarayeva001 said:
    Too many ingredients. Water, cetrimonium chloride, polyq 7 or quat 80, preservative, fragrance and solubilizer will do what you want. I would say polyquat 10 but that won’t spray. If you want to make it even better add amodimethicone. Keep crodazoquat for a creamy consistency product.
    Thank you so much for your input. I will be ordering the polyquat 80 soon as I can

     I formulate mainly for myself and my daughters but even so I like to make great “near professional” products. I will consider removing the other ingredients and keep it simpler.

    Unfortunately, at present I don’t have access to any Polyquats. I do however have VisCaress HPD but when I add oil it turns to a cream. 

    Perhaps the oil is the issue? Would it make any difference to stability if I reduced it to 1% OR removed altogether 

    In place of demithecone would Lexfeel N5 be a suitable alternative?
  • Nthabi_joyNthabi_joy Member
    Hi Everyone.
    Apologies in advance if this post is too long. I am in need of you help please. I have been toying with a sorayable leave in conditioner for quite a while now and although it feels great in the hair, the stability is the issue as it always separates.

    This is my starter formula(which I tweaked this morning and will share results below)

    Phase A
    Water         80%
    glycerine     2%
    Cetrimonimum chloride 1%
    Phase B
    Crodazoquat MCC   4%
    isoamyl laureate        1%
    Lexfeel N5.                1%
    Olive oil water soluble 2%
    Phase C
    goat milk hydrolysate.  1%
    keratin.                         1%
    Dpanthenol.                  1%
    slippery elm.                 1%
    marshmallow root.        1%
    bamboo biofermment.   1%
    floral fragrance.             1%
    versatil BOB.                  1%
    citric acid.                       1%

    This formula didn’t emulsify. It separated and obviously unstable.
    This morning I tweaked the formula a little in the following way:
    Added cetearyl alcohol at 2%
    Added Cetyl alcohol 1%
    Reduced water to 77%

    this made a very nice formula that appears stable and it has been 3hours now. However it thickened it considerably and its now like a thin lotion (which is great except I have to use a lotion pump and not a spray pump). This little accident reminds me of a Combing Cream and I shall keep this formula to make a Damage Repair cream or a Moisture cream. But the question still remains how to inmake a spray leave in detangler that is stable.

    I’d appreciate any advice, input or thoughts to make my formula more stable.... I’d like a spray that hydrates, softens and detangles


    Update on this formula (before I bin it as a bad formula - if theres such a thing)

    Because I only have Crodazoquat and Cetearyl Alcohol to work with at the moment, I tried my best to try and fix this product.

    I reduced the Crodazoquat MCC to 2%
    Cetearyl Alcohol to 2%
    Olive oil 1%
    Glycerine 1%
    Removed all the other ingredients and added the remainder to water.

    when i made just one product it cme out fine and is still stable no separation. I then tried a bigger batch and made 3 products, dissapointingly these came out again as a lotion.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited January 2019
    Cetearyl alcohol is a thickener and it will form a lotion even at 2%. I can share my successful detangling spray formula:
    INCI %
    Aqua 77.2%
    Amodimethicone 8.0%
    PEG-8 Dimethicone 7.0%
    Polyquat 7 1.5%
    Cetrimonium Chloride 2.0%
    Propanediol 2.0%
    Lavender EO 0.3%
    PEG-40 HCO 1.0%
    Germaben II 1.0%

    Either polyquat 7 or quat 80. Both work well. You can also replace polyquat 7 to polyquat 10 (which I personally like more) but it will be more viscous and you will need a pump bottle, not a sprayer bottle. This spray is water-soluble and all ingredients can be found on either lotioncrafter or makingcosmetics. It is quite strong, you don't need too much of it.

    Cetrimonium is 30%, and amodimethicone is watersoluble (it's mixed with an emulsifier). 
  • Nthabi_joyNthabi_joy Member
    ngarayeva001 said:
    Cetearyl alcohol is a thickener and it will form a lotion even at 2%. I can share my successful detangling spray formula:
    INCI %
    Aqua 77.2%
    Amodimethicone 8.0%
    PEG-8 Dimethicone 7.0%
    Polyquat 7 1.5%
    Cetrimonium Chloride 2.0%
    Propanediol 2.0%
    Lavender EO 0.3%
    PEG-40 HCO 1.0%
    Germaben II 1.0%

    Either polyquat 7 or quat 80. Both work well. You can also replace polyquat 7 to polyquat 10 (which I personally like more) but it will be more viscous and you will need a pump bottle, not a sprayer bottle. This spray is water-soluble and all ingredients can be found on either lotioncrafter or makingcosmetics. It is quite strong, you don't need too much of it.

    Cetrimonium is 30%, and amodimethicone is watersoluble (it's mixed with an emulsifier). 
    Thank you so much for this ☺️

    Once i I have the received the ingredients I will let you know how it went ☺️
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