Hello everyone, I'm having a hard time getting
emulsion for my makeup remover oil stick.
I have read lots of article on O/W and W/O emulsion and I assumed my current formula is W/O. And I would like to make it in a stick form.
I think I understand how O/W HLB calculation work so far and able to complete O/W formula with good emulsion. However, when I try to do W/O formula that is where I got lost. I read something saying for each oil/waxes/lipid RHLB will be difference in W/O formula and I can't seem to find any value table or calculation method on the internet.
1. Are they using the same formula and same HLB value for each lipid type to calculate W/O emulsion?
2. Lots of material on internet saying W/O HLB range is 4-6, if I were to use same calculating method as O/W, I don't get anything near 4-6 as my lowest oil has HLB of 7 so it won't get any lower.
3. I tried lots of experiment, blending Tween60, Span60, PEG-40, Tween20, PEG-7 cocowash (not all at the same time) but 2 or 3 surfactants to get HLB between 4.7 to 13 nothing seem to get any good emulsion (at the appropriate %). I assumed good emulsion mean both water and oil blended until it get clear no cloud (the reason I thought this is because when I get it to clear, I got smooth cream (solid) consistent that I wanted. But the only time I would get my current formula to clear is where I add 20%-30% span60. yes I got the consistent I wanted but it probably isn't sufficient (too much span60).
4. How do I know how many % of emulsion I need in the formula? I have read a lot saying there is no complete formula and some said 25% of lipid but if I do W/O then that will be lots emulsion?
5. You kind advice on what emulsion agents I need to use and how many % to get good emulsion on the formula below will be much appreciated.
Here is my formula, the rest of the % I left for emulsion agents (don't know if it is too much, please advise.)
Phase 1 (water phase)
Natural Liquid Soap 18% (consisting of Potassium Hydroxide, Oil, Water)
Butylene Glycol 3%
Propylene Glycol 5%
Phase 2 (lipid phase)
Polyethylene Wax 8%
Sunflower Oil 28%
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 9%
Phase 3 (emulsion agent)
PEG-7 Coco Wash 5.00%
This is where I have problem with
Phase 4 (Fragrance, Extracts, preservative)
Aloe Vera Extract (water soluble) 3.95%
Turmeric Extract 0.15%
Essential Oil 1%
Fragrance Oil 0.9%
Phenoxyethan + EHG 1%
1. I heat
Phase 1 and 2 separately and put Phase 1 into Phase 2 (I assumed that what we do for W/O?)
2. I then put Phase 3 in there and stir, when it get thick, I put it back in double boiler.
3. When it become liquid (preferably clear liquid, this is where I have the problem) I take it out of double boiler and let it cool a bit and put Phase 4 then stir and put in my twist up container.
Any help or recommendation will be much appreciated, and thank you in advance for your valuable time.
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