Makeup Remover Oil Stick

Hello everyone, I'm having a hard time getting emulsion for my makeup remover oil stick.

I have read lots of article on O/W and W/O emulsion and I assumed my current formula is W/O. And I would like to make it in a stick form.

I think I understand how O/W HLB calculation work so far and able to complete O/W formula with good emulsion. However, when I try to do W/O formula that is where I got lost. I read something saying for each oil/waxes/lipid RHLB will be difference in W/O formula and I can't seem to find any value table or calculation method on the internet.

1. Are they using the same formula and same HLB value for each lipid type to calculate W/O emulsion?
2. Lots of material on internet saying W/O HLB range is 4-6, if I were to use same calculating method as O/W, I don't get anything near 4-6 as my lowest oil has HLB of 7 so it won't get any lower.
3. I tried lots of experiment, blending Tween60, Span60, PEG-40, Tween20, PEG-7 cocowash (not all at the same time) but 2 or 3 surfactants to get HLB between 4.7 to 13 nothing seem to get any good emulsion (at the appropriate %). I assumed good emulsion mean both water and oil blended until it get clear no cloud (the reason I thought this is because when I get it to clear, I got smooth cream (solid) consistent that I wanted. But the only time I would get my current formula to clear is where I add 20%-30% span60. yes I got the consistent I wanted but it probably isn't sufficient (too much span60).
4. How do I know how many % of emulsion I need in the formula? I have read a lot saying there is no complete formula and some said 25% of lipid but if I do W/O then that will be lots emulsion?
5. You kind advice on what emulsion agents I need to use and how many % to get good emulsion on the formula below will be much appreciated.

Here is my formula, the rest of the % I left for emulsion agents (don't know if it is too much, please advise.)

Phase 1 (water phase)
Natural Liquid Soap     18% (consisting of Potassium Hydroxide, Oil, Water)
Silica                            4%
Butylene Glycol            3%
Propylene Glycol          5% 

Phase 2 (lipid phase)
Polyethylene Wax         8%
Sunflower Oil               28%
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate   9%

Phase 3 (emulsion agent)
PEG-7 Coco Wash        5.00%
This is where I have problem with

Phase 4 (Fragrance, Extracts, preservative)
Aloe Vera Extract (water soluble)  3.95%
Turmeric Extract                           0.15%
Essential Oil                                  1%
Fragrance Oil                                 0.9%
Phenoxyethan + EHG                     1%

1. I heat Phase 1 and 2 separately and put Phase 1 into Phase 2 (I assumed that what we do for W/O?)
2. I then put Phase 3 in there and stir, when it get thick, I put it back in double boiler.
3. When it become liquid (preferably clear liquid, this is where I have the problem) I take it out of double boiler and let it cool a bit and put Phase 4 then stir and put in my twist up container.

Any help or recommendation will be much appreciated, and thank you in advance for your valuable time.


  • Is it your formula or you have a benchmark? You can make a generic make up removing balm of mineral oil Cithrol GTIS and polyethylene. Add more polyethylene and it will be hard enough for form a stick. You don’t need any water at all.
  • And you definitely don’t need soap in it. You need an oil to dissolve make up and an emulsifier that will allow to rinse the oil off.
  • @ngarayeva001 thank you for you recommendation.

    I see your point. I do have a benchmark product which I really like and don't like at the same time. What I don't like about it is how oily it feel after dissolve all the makeup away then rainse it water, very oily, feel like I have to wash my face again.

    So I thought to add natural soap in there (since it is also make from oil) to make it feel like I don't need to wash my face again with facial foam.

    Any recommendation if it is possible to make emulsion for the above ingredients?

    Thank you again
  • I'm also trying to search mineral oil Cithrol GTIS from your recommendation. Is it the same with white oil, liquid paraffin? Is there alternative surfactants suggested besides mineral oil?

    Another thing is do I need Butylene Glycol  & Propylene Glycol in my formula? Does it actually help dissolving the makeup as well? And it consider water soluble right?

    Thank you so much
  • You don’t need to wash face again with a property formulated balm. Cithrol is an emulsifier. I said mineral oil as an example, use any liquid oil. Butylene glycol is a humectant. It’s not required.
  • Thank you @ngarayeva001 really appreciate it.
  • Example of a simple makeup removing balm:
    Percentage to be used
    Mineral oil 61.65%
    Cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 Stearate 10.00%
    PEG-40 HCO 12.00%
    Stearic acid 10.00%
    Cetyl Alcohol 5.00%

    Mix of essential oils 0.50%
    Preservative 0.75%

    You can replace steric acid and cetyl alcohol to 15%-20% of polyethene and it will be hard enough to form a stick
  • Perfect, thank you!
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