Is there any chance the LOI is correct?

Its about a liquid lipstick with powdery afterfeel that I have been working on.
The problem is that in the LOI I see silicons, water(!), and oil, without anything giving emulsifying properties.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is an alternative of natural lanoline(some weak maybe), not strong enough in my opinion to hold an emulsion of that type..
Is there anything that I am missing here?
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance 


  • Maybe they are using the dimethicone crosspolymer and the hydrogenated polyisobutene to suspend and physically separate the phases? I don't have experience in color cosmetics so that's just my guess
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    I can't see the ingredient list in your link. Can you copy and paste it here?
  • Yes of course
    Dimethicone, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Water/Aqua/Eau, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Alumina, Aluminum Benzoate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Barium Sulfate (CI 77120), Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance/Parfum. MAY CONTAIN / PEUT CONTENIR (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, 
  • @Perry @EVchem HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE improves the thickness of the system, I would say this is it, if it contained only silicones and oils..
    But water. Weird.
  • DoreenDoreen Member
    edited December 2018
    The dimethicon crosspolymer may have emulsifying properties.
  • SibechSibech Member, Professional Chemist
    edited December 2018
    @mayachem ;The Dimethicone crosspolymer + Dimethicone is probably Dowsil 9041, which provides (some of) the thickening effect.

    I am uncertain what you mean by improves the thickness (Reduces/increases) but Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is pretty much sold as a D5 substitute and wouldn't provide much thickening, it would, however, increase the volatility of the product and assist to the dry-powder feeling.

    As for the original question; Yes it may be correct, the Dowsil functions as a W/O emulsifier.

    Edit: @Doreen beat me to it...
    Dabbling Formulator — Qualified Cosmetic Safety Assessor — experienced in claim substantiation & EU regulatory affairs.
  • Thank you very much,appreciated your comments.
    I will supply the lab with a sample of dowsil 9041,I think I have got in touch with this ingredient,its  quite viscous in gel form.

  • DoreenDoreen Member
    edited December 2018
    Maybe there is confusion with polyisobutene (not hydrogenated), which can be used as oil thickener.
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Not an emulsion at all, but an oil suspension utilizing alumina and aluminum salts. I'll bet the water content there is<1.0%.
  • SibechSibech Member, Professional Chemist
    @chemicalmatt you are probably correct on the formula being more of a suspension (I was a bit too quick and read w/o emulsification and missed that dowsil was written to thicken w/o emulsions). Could you elaborate on how the aluminium and salts thereof would aid in the suspension?

    I am more qurious why it’s there as the alumina salts have a low solubility... processing purposes and reduce water draw from skin due to glycerin?

    Dabbling Formulator — Qualified Cosmetic Safety Assessor — experienced in claim substantiation & EU regulatory affairs.
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