Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need help with solubulising a perfume

  • Need help with solubulising a perfume

    Posted by myraqureshi on December 18, 2018 at 6:12 pm
     Im hoping you can help me with something I am struggling with.
    We have formulated a Lotion and we have a safety assessment for it. Last week we made a first batch with it (not too big - approx 40 KG).
    However I feel that the fragrance even at 0.3 percent (which is what we used, whilst we have a safety assessment at 0.4%) is mixing properly  visibly - However when I apply the cream its causing a bit of itchiness/ burning  (and I know its perfume related because I have sensitive skin and I can always tell if its fragrance related).  However, I would imagine this only happens because the fragrance isn’t properly solubulizing in the lotion (even though its only 0.3%)
    Im wondering three things:
    (i) Its an oil in water emulsion. (Even though it is a lotion.). Is it possible that the fragrance isn’t solubulising correctly in the lotion? 
    (ii)  Do you think I should add hydrolyzed castor oil (Croduret) to the fragrance in a new batch to see if it will solubulise better (even though I dont understand why I would use it considering its an emulsion)
    (iii) How can I salvage this batch? We mixed it with a homogenizer for over 40 minutes. If I add a solubuliser to it now, will it help?
    We haven’t had this issue with lab scale samples and I am really worried.  Its also microbiologically compliant as we had it tested.
    Was wondering if you can shed some light on to this with your experience?  We are all a bit spooked and helpless!
    Im attaching the recipe below
    Thanks so much for your assistance.  

    Sr.No. NAME OF
    INGREDIENTS
    INCI
    NAME/BOTANICAL NAME
    CAS No. FUNCTIONS CONTENT
    RATIO          (% W/W)
      PHASE A        
    1 DISTILLED
    WATER
    AQUA 7732-18-5 SOLVENT 82.00%
    2 GLYCERIN GLYCERIN

    56-81-5 Humectant 2.00%
    3 ETHYLENEDIAMINE
    TETRAACETIC ACID
    DISODIUM
    EDTA
    64-02-8 VISCOSITY
    CONTROLLING
    0.20%
    4 ALOE VERA POWDER  Aloe barbadensis  85507-69-3 Moisturizing 0.10%
    5 ACRYPOL ELT 20 Acrylates/
    C10-30 Alkyl Acylate Crosspolymer
    thickening agent 0.20%
      PHASE B        
    6 CETYL ALCOHOL Cetyl
    Alcohol
    36653-82-4 VISCOSITY
    ENHANCER
    1.00%
    7 XANTHAM GUM Xanthan Gum 11138-66-2 Binding 0.30%
    8 COSMOWAX
    D
    CETEARETH-20 AND
    CETEARYL ALCOHOL
     68439-49-6, 67762-27-0,
    8005-44-5
    EMULSIFIER 1.00%
    9 GLYCERYL MONOCTERATE Glyceryl stearate 31566-31-1 EMULSIFIER 2.00%
    10 JOJOBA OIL ORGANIC
    SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL
    61789-91-1. Emollient 2.00%
    11 SAFFLOWER OIL ORGANIC
    HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL
    8001-21-6 Emollient 4.00%
    12 COCONUT OIL ORGANIC COCOS
    NUCIFERA OIL
    8001-31-8 Skin
    conditioning
    2.00%
    13 SHEA BUTTER BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 194043-92-0 Skin
    conditioning
    2%
      PHASE C        
    14 VITAMIN E Tocopheryl Acetate 58-95-7 Antioxidant 0.5%
    15 SALIGUARD EHGP Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 122-99-6 & 71445-33-9 Preservative 0.5%
    15 SALIGUARD BDHA  Benzyl Alcohol (and)
    Dehydroacetic Acid
    100-51-6 & 520-45-6 Preservative 0.30%
    16 FRAGRANCE PERFUME  N/A PERFUMING 0.30%
    Vnnil replied 4 years, 11 months ago 9 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    December 18, 2018 at 9:35 pm

    One thing I discovered early - the hard way - is that there are two classes of fragrance. For personal use, and for industrial use. I went to a local factor and bought some fragrances and one of them (I found out later) was supposed to be for industrial floor cleaning products.
    The limitation you quoted of 0.4% makes me think that it’s likely your fragrance is an industrial one. 

  • microformulation

    Member
    December 19, 2018 at 12:59 am

    When did EDTA become viscosity controlling? What did I miss?

  • das

    Member
    December 19, 2018 at 5:50 am

    1) It’s possible but unlikely. You’ll see the droplets in a stability test. 
    2) I’d make other tests first.
    3) The batch is probably fine, but no, you can’t separate the fragrance.

    If you are willing, you should make a patch test on yourself to ensure it’s the fragrance. If it is, contact your supplier, explain this to them and change it. 

    Keep in mind a fragrance can have over 100 components. Many will induce allergic reactions to some people even at low levels. It’s important you work with a company with experience in formulating fragrances for cosmetic products. Small companies usually make a few simple formulas and buy and dillute the hard ones. If they can’t give you tech support find a better supplier.

    Also consider making trials on smaller batches, I wouldn’t test a fragrance in more than 1 or 2kg. 

  • gunther

    Member
    December 19, 2018 at 4:26 pm

    You need to conduct a test with no fragrance to make sure it’s the fragrance that’s causing itchiness.
    Preferably, a blind test where test subjects don’t know what formulation they’re testing.

  • vjay

    Member
    December 21, 2018 at 11:43 am

    you need to use perfume with standard suppliers like IBERCHEM, ROBERTET, ETC.., You should also ask perfume supplier for the IFRA & Allergen Certifiacate and in IFRA you are able to see the dossage of your perfume in your product.

  • AlaattinCabuk

    Member
    December 22, 2018 at 12:47 am

    Probably you did it, but i want to ask did you adjust the ph level.

  • dr-catherine-pratt

    Member
    December 25, 2018 at 9:26 am

    Can you make a small sample without the fragrance and if there is no itch, then maybe you could double the formula as it would be a concentration problem. Also find the pH. Or if the fragrance is not solubilising then it will pour straight onto your skin (Ouch). I cannot see your solubilser in the list?

  • dr-catherine-pratt

    Member
    December 25, 2018 at 9:46 am

    You could add your solubiliser (which one are you using), and maybe add more Vit E and see what happens?

  • myraqureshi

    Member
    April 26, 2019 at 9:38 pm

    When did EDTA become viscosity controlling? What did I miss?

    Sorry that’s a faux pas. It’s chelating agent. 

  • myraqureshi

    Member
    April 26, 2019 at 9:41 pm

    vjay said:

    you need to use perfume with standard suppliers like IBERCHEM, ROBERTET, ETC.., You should also ask perfume supplier for the IFRA & Allergen Certifiacate and in IFRA you are able to see the dossage of your perfume in your product.

  • Vnnil

    Member
    April 27, 2019 at 1:48 am
    Is ACRYPOL ELT 20 pre-neutralised? I don’t see a neutraliser in the formula.

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