Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Silk powder, niacinamide, and panthenol

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  • Silk powder, niacinamide, and panthenol

    Posted by Jdawgswife76 on November 22, 2018 at 6:17 am

    So im trying to come up with a nice NOT to thick (more like serum texture) face cream  and was just curiouse if these 3 would formulate  and function good on the skin together and provide some nice results.  Anyone have any advise or experience working with all three together in a formulation? 

    oldperry replied 5 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 6:56 am

    Out of these 3, silk powder (proteins, amino acids) doesn’t do much and smells terribly. You will need tons of perfume to suppress this smell. Pathenol - doesn’t really do anything though you can use  a little (0.5%). Niacinamide- great ingredient that is proven to have skin benefits  by many studies. Good amount is 5%. My advice is add 5% of Niacinamide and 0.5% of panthenol in your waterphase (don’t forget your chelator, use tetrasodium EDTA to keep it transparent and watersolubld preservative), add something around 0.3% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and leave it in peace for 3 hours. Then mix it well (with a spatula, you don’t need special instruments) and call it vitamin b serum. If it’s too thin for you, just add more HA and mix again.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 7:04 am

    If you want it to be an emulsion use the same logic but you need oil phase. Say 1% of shea butter, 3% of jojoba oil (or squalane) and non thickening emulsifier. For example glyceryl stearate/peg100 stearate and something to decrease hlb, for example sorbitan oleate (because shea is 6, jojoba is 7 if I remember correctly, and emulsifiyers mix above is 11). Don’t use polysorbate 60, or glyceryl oleate.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:11 am

    Ok i only have emulsifying wax nf,  stearic acid and cetyl alcohol right now im waiting on my btms 50 and the NF has Polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol,  peg-150, and steareth-20 in it according to the INCI.  What about  Mango Butter and i only have veg glycerin right now also have a order im placing but waiting  to add a few more to save on my shipping

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:13 am

    I also only have disodium EDTA right  now which is a chelating agent would that be good for the serum? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 6:56 am

    @Jdawgswife76, disodium EDTA is actually preferable for products with lower pH (lower than 8). Tetrasodium is used for surfactants and when you want to get a clear product. So it only relevant for water based serum. You are trying to make an emuslsion, so disodium is even better. I am not a big fan of emulsifiers with many components (unless it’s a polymer), so I have cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 separately. The thing is they both are thickeners (poly60 is a high hlb emulsifier but it has thickening properties).Try to play with percentages to see if you can get serum like texture. Don’t use much oil if you use low % of the emulsifier. Mango butter is ok. It is lighter than shea. So it’s about your preferences.

  • gunther

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 11:43 pm

    Studies show topical niacinamide, creatine and folic acid have great potential.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    December 3, 2018 at 1:44 pm

    Im assuming for the skin as in creams,  lotions,  serums,  etc?  I actually have all of these and sounds  really great I will have to play around with these ingredients.  The creatine i haven’t really heard much about in formulating. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 3, 2018 at 2:37 pm

    I really wish I could find folic acid in homecrafter quantities. @Gunther, do you know by any chance who sells it?

  • gld010

    Member
    December 3, 2018 at 9:39 pm

    I would suggest using Panthenol at a lower level, or even not at all. There are global panthenol shortages due to plants in China closing and prices are jumping up. I don’t think your clients will notice a difference without it. Maybe put it in at 0.01% if you really want it on the IL?

  • microformulation

    Member
    December 3, 2018 at 9:49 pm

    DSM has Folic acid available but is expensive, in large quantities and in the few cases I have used it, the results were really minimal at best.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 1:24 am

    Folic acid or ferulic acid?  I have Ferulic Acid

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 1:26 am

    Bulk suplments has folic acid

  • microformulation

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 1:54 am
    1. It is Folic acid I believe that was mentioned, but I don’t put much past over auto-correct. Ferulic acid is a totally different animal.
    2. Bulk supplements have an oral grade (Supplements, not Cosmetic) at 10 grams for almost 13 dollars. That brings your cost to $587.85 per pound or $1293.27 per pound. That is a lot of raw material cost for an item with minimal benefit.
  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 2:36 am

    I was just letting you know who had it that i could think of off top of  my head. ..

  • microformulation

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 12:52 pm
    I understand. (above should be $1293.27 per kilo.)

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 1:44 pm

    I am not particularly experienced, but my observation is that outrageously expensive ingredients are not worth the money. Say, hyaluronic acid, around $40-50 for 25gr on lotioncrafter (depending on the molecular weight). You can get exactly the same result (if not better) by mixing glycerin, butylene glycol and 1,3 Propanediol for a fraction of the price. I was actually interested in folic acid, but sounds like it’s another “resveratrol” (crazy price no result).

  • oldperry

    Member
    December 4, 2018 at 4:16 pm

    @ngarayeva001 - that’s a good starting assumption.

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