separating body wash

Hello there, I am trying to make small-scale body wash in my lab and everything went well until my reserved body wash started to separate in a month or so, the clear phase is at the bottom and the pearlized-opaque phase is at the top. This is a HP body wash with saponification.

Here is the formula I use:
70.4% water
12.35% lauric acid
3.75% myristic acid
4.1% KOH
2% EGDS
1% gylcerine
0.9% hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
2.1% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
3.2% SLES
0.2% EDTA

I've done some changes including lengthen the saponification process up to 2 hours, or changing the rheology modifier (HPMC cellulose into acrylate copolymer), or changin EGDS from other brand, but nothing seems to work. The pearly phase is on top of the clear phase. Nevertheless, there is no significant difference in terms of performance or feels, of the pearly phase vs the clear phase.

Anyone has been through the same problem or has any suggestion?

Comments

  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    Lubrizol lists some great formulations of this kind. You will a lot of help there. 
  • I think you should neutralize lauric and myristic acids with KOH separately, to avoid KOH reacting with other ingredients.

    You may wish to use a premade commercial pearlizer instead of EGDS.

    0.2% is a bit high. 0.1% will work fine.
  • Chemist77 said:
    Lubrizol lists some great formulations of this kind. You will a lot of help there. 
    Hi, thanks for your answer. Yes, you're right, I've used their formulation too, but the pearlizer still separate to the top. I'm wondering what is the common cause for the pearlizer (EGDS) to separate to the top.

    Gunther said:
    I think you should neutralize lauric and myristic acids with KOH separately, to avoid KOH reacting with other ingredients.

    You may wish to use a premade commercial pearlizer instead of EGDS.

    0.2% is a bit high. 0.1% will work fine.
    Hi, thanks for your answer, I usually have this preheated in separated glass:
    A: Lauric acid, myristic acid, water
    B: KOH, glycerin, EDTA, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose

    When they reach 160-170F, I mix them together and let them saponified for 1 hour in that temperature. After that I let the temperature decreases to 120F and mix in the rest of the ingredients: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, SLES, EGDS.
    I'm wondering what is the common cause for the pearlizer (EGDS) to separate to the top.



  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    The stability of a pearlescent is influenced by the viscosity and density of the liquid and the particle size of the pearlizer. You can read up on stokes law for more information if you want the science behind it.

    I have always had better luck using a commercial pearlescent than trying to add EGDS.
  • ozgirl said:
    The stability of a pearlescent is influenced by the viscosity and density of the liquid and the particle size of the pearlizer. You can read up on stokes law for more information if you want the science behind it.

    I have always had better luck using a commercial pearlescent than trying to add EGDS.
    Hi there, thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to increase the viscosity. Can you name the commercial pearlescent that work well for you (brand of commercial name if that's OK)? I am planning to obtain Euperlan PK from BASF tho.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Completely agree with pearls. I could never get a really good pearl until I used a commercial blend. Besides, the commercial pearl products can be added cold process.
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  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    @sands I have had good experiences with the Euperlan pearlescents from BASF.
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