Oil based clay pomade (TUG)

My oil based clay pomade has too much tug.  It comes out of the container fine, emulsifies in the hand really smooth, but when it comes to applying it to the hair, it has too much tug.  Low shine.  Medium/firm hold.  

  • BTMS-50 (Conditioning E-Wax):  9.1%
  • PEG 8 Beeswax:  10.91%
  • Microcrystalline Wax:  7.27%
  • Cocoa Butter:  4.77%
  • Mango Butter:  4.32%
  • Castor Oil:  14.55%
  • Castor Jelly:  9.1%
  • Avocado Oil:  18.19%
  • Lanolin:  1.81%
  • Kaolin Clay:  19.07%
  • Vitamin E:  .91%

I melted everything except the clay and vitamin E.  I stirred everyone once in a while until I reached 190 degrees F.  Then I used a stick blender to make sure it was all blended.  Lowered heat to about 170 and added the clay and vitamin E.  Kept in heat for another few minutes while I blasted it with my stick blender.  At around 130 degrees F I poured into containers.  Left un-capped over night.  

Castor Jelly is a combination of hydrogenated castor oil and castor oil.  I'm using the BTMS-50 because I like the conditioning feeling.  What is the typical usage rate for clay??


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