I’ve finally come to understand/accept that a formula I have recently been testing is basically just sitting on the very top surface of my skin.
My issue is I need to make a water based product for my skincare needs. I have really damaged skin which FREAKS out when I apply almost anything: oils, butters, fatty alcohols (cetyl, cetearyl), propylene & butylene glycol, thickeners & gums (carbomer, xantham gum), and more.
I wanted to make a water-based serum with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide (research shows it can increase ceramide synthesis) and n-acetyl glucosamine (apparently a precursor to hyaluronic acid in skin, purported to increase moisture). And a preservative, of course.
My question is: Is it a waste of time to create a formula with these ingredients if they are just going to be sitting on surface of my skin? Will they produce any kind of effect at all on the quality of my skin?
On the other hand, I have also read that it is a myth that cosmetics travel and/or act much further below the stratum corneum. Are skincare products in fact supposed to act solely on the surface of the skin?
So I guess right now I’m just really confused as to whether or not I actually need it to somehow “penetrate” to a certain place in my skin for changes to take effect.
If anyone can help clarify this for me, and/or if there are any ingredient suggestions that might make this product effective - I would very much appreciate the input.
Thank you for your time.