Hair Clay emulsion problem


I am in the process of developing Hair clay (Pomade/paste) for men and everything is working great and smooth but i am experiencing oil and water seperation after adding water to my product (It is the last ingredient i am adding to the mixture) Maybe someone could tell me what should I change in my mixing process or ingredient list?

Ingredient list:

Beeswax 15,3%

Petrolatum( Petroleum jelly) 15,3%

Emulsifying wax NF 1%

Castor oil 11,8%

Polysorbate-80 5% 

Kaolin Clay 10% 

Diatomaceous earth 5%

Bentonite clay 5%

Water 25,6%

Glycerol (Glycerin) 5%

Preservative - 1%

(I am mixing all oils and waxes, then mixing into that my clays and then Im adding water with glycerol into that mixture. It is at the beginning doing all great but then randomly seperates and looks like the clays are seperate from oil-water mixture. Somebody can help please?)

Looking forward to hearing from all of you


  • Make a stable emulsion first add clay last. You'll likely need to experiment with different emulsifiers and/or higher %. 
  • I would mix the clays into the water and then add that to the oil phase (at the very least the bentonite). In my experience this has created far more stable emulsions.
  • @natzam44 do you have your water at boiling point when adding?
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