beard oil with BTMS-50

i recently made a beard oil that included a conditioning emulisfing wax (BTMS-50).  Its feels amazing!! Basically you add all the ingredients in a double boiler and melt everything through.  Then I poured the oil in 1 oz glass jars.  The next morning I took them to work to print labels and noticed that the oil had clumped up.  There were solid bits floati g around and was very disappointed.  How can I keep this all in liquid form? Can I reheat and add something?I would hate to waste so much ingredients ($$$).  

8.53g | 34.1% Olive Squalane
1.25g | 5% BTMS-50
5g | 20% Grapeseed oil
5g | 20% Argan oil
5g | 20% Jojoba oil

Vitamin E Oil:  0.12g | 0.5%


  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    That wax is dispersible/miscible with the oil components, solubility is not an option in my guess. Best you can do is filter the oil and get rid of the insolubles.
  • IMO BTMS-50 is best poured when the other ingredients have warmed up already, to 170 F (70 C)
    Pouring it cold leads to tiny clumps.
    I don't know why, and I never read that mentioned anywhere, but my experiments suggest so.

  • chemncchemnc Member
    Did you dissolve the BTMS-50 in oil first?
  • @chemnc I prefer to 
    1 heat water to about 170 F (70 C)
    2 pour BTMS
    3 stir for 10+ minutes to make sure no mini clumps remain (you can draw a bit with a spoon and watch it under a magnifying glass)
    4 for creams: add oils now
    5 for conditioners: allow to cool off a bit and add silicones

    I believe you can get away with single-pot mixing with BTMS
    but I'd rather make sure all BTMS has properly melted and dispersed.
  • this is an oil based beard oil.  no water.  It includes olive squalane, argan oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil and BTMS-50.  I added all of the ingredients into a small glass Pyrex cup and melted.  It got up to about 180 degrees.  No bits or anything.  Then I poured into containers, next day I saw it all clumped up in the bottom.  So a few days later I put the beard oil bottles in a water bath to remelt, but unfortunately it didn't help, following day I still saw it clumped up.  

    8.53g | 34.1% Squalane
    1.25g | 5% BTMS-50
    5g | 20% Grapeseed oil
    5g | 20% Argan oil
    5g | 20% Jojoba oil

    Vitamin E Oil:  0.12g | 0.5%

    I am thinking of straining the beard oil.  DO NOT want this to go to waste.  Olive Squalane is very expensive!!!

  • @gnomebeard, Hi, I tried to make the same beard oil, but the result was not the same as I expected, it just froze, and turned into a solid mass, what could I have done wrong and how to correct this error?
    Do you find where problem, sclavan real very expencive.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited March 2019
    BTMS-50 is 50% cetyl alcohol, of course it solidifies. You can't fix this "error" because it's not an error.
  • @ngarayeva001, Please tell me, I think, to reduce the percentage of BTMS-50, can it help and make the product with liquid oil, or if it's not difficult tell me what can replace the BTMS-50 in this formulation to get the conditioning effect? Thanks in advance for any help.
  • You will not achieve a liquid product with BTMS-50. I can suggest how to make watersoluble, sprayable conditioning product but not oil as I am not aware of existance of oil-soluble quaterniums.
    Amodimethicone is what I see in commercial products, however it's impossible to find the pure version on the DIY market.

    The best approach to the liquid beard oil would be 20% of Dimethicone, 79.5% of Cyclomethicone and 0.5% of any oil that you want to use as a claim ingredient.
  • @ngarayeva001, I find Amodimethicone in store in my country, how i can use him, i must take 99,5% Amodimethicone and 0,5% oil, like this?
  • No! First of all, if you find small quantities of pure amodimethicone in your country please give me the link. Amodimethicone is a cationic silicone (with great conditioning properties). Usually it is sold in a form of an emulsion which can't be added to oil or silicone. So, if you find it, 20% medium weight dimethicone (like 350-500), 2% Amodimethicone, 0.5% of vegetable oil of your choice for claims, cyclomethicone qs. Can be used as consitioning leave in hair serum as well.
  • @ngarayeva001, here is link, this site on russian, so like i anderstand, formula must be look like: dimeticon - 20%, 2% - amodimeticon, 0,5% - oil, cyclomethicone - 77,5%, and how i can add fragrance. I need preservative?
  • From what I understood, they have two varieties and both are watersoluble (this is not pure amodimethicone) which means you can't use it for this formula. Just skip amodimethicone. You can add any oil-soluble fragrance, such as essential oil. Regarding preservative, it's not as straighforward as it seems. Some experts believe that you don't need preservative for an anhydrous system. I know that Perry's opinion is that any cosmetic product requires preservative. I personally do not add any preservative to an anhydrous silicone based hair detangler for personal use, but don't quote me on this.
  • OMG! These prices are shoking! I wish they have a version of this website in English....
  • @ngarayeva001, they make delivery worldwide.
  • They sell hydroquinone. I couldn't believe my eyes.
  • @BeardlyGentlemen @ngarayeva001

    Use .75% of BTMS-50 and it will stay liquid.  During the heating make sure you stir with an overhead stirrer or mini stick blender 
  • OMG! These prices are shoking! I wish they have a version of this website in English....
    Google translate works just fine with these prices :D. These guys are giving stuff away for free in comparison to the prices I am paying in the EU. Unbelievable! I just e-mailed them. Momma is getting some new toys :smiley:
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