Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Clay mask question please: does this formula require a preservative (no water, yes oils & honey)

Tagged: 

  • Clay mask question please: does this formula require a preservative (no water, yes oils & honey)

    Posted by Valerie on March 30, 2018 at 11:03 pm

    Hello and thanks in advance for a little guidance, I am new here!  Just out of curiosity. My questions is about preserving a clay mask.  I understand formulas with clay are notoriously hard to preserve.  My plan is to use phenonip 1%. Any suggestions on usage rate and how to incorporate that into this recipe below is greatly appreciated, also other preservative options you can recommend!   I am a soap maker (novice kitchen chemist) so please forgive the what is perhaps dumb questions! TIA! 

    On a side note: there is no water component in my recipe - so just curious, if not ever contaminated with water, in theory, would this recipe need a preservative?  I want to share this with others in this paste form - 

    My recipe is (+ or -): 
    60% dry powders (clay, zinc, charcoal) 
    5% raw honey
    10% oil
    20% white willow bark glycerite
    + or - essential oils 3%
    1% phenonip planned

    I mix this paste with water at the time of application for a maks.
    Or without added water as a spot treatment for blemishes. 

    Again, Thanks in advance for any feedback or suggestions! Val

    doreen replied 5 years, 11 months ago 6 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 11:10 pm
    I would suggest you use a preservative.The 1% Phenonip is okay.
  • Sissi99

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 2:17 am

    I would say you need to, as honey still has some water content.

  • Valerie

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 2:47 pm

    Thank you, that was a concern of mine, thanks for your comment! 

  • Valerie

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 2:48 pm

    Thanks for the recommendation that phenonip 1% is a good choice. Any suggestion on how to incorporate? Or concerns about the clay and preserving? TIA! 

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 3:33 pm

    The Phenonip should go into the Oil phase:if not pre-mix with 1% polysorbate 80 and then add to oil.

  • Valerie

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 6:40 pm

    DrBob, perfect thank you. I will use phenonip which is not pre-mix, Should I have concerns about clay being hard to preserve? Could you elaborate on that aspect of clay masks for me?   At 1% can you estimate for me what I can expect from the shelf life, unopened? TIA! 

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    Check C of A for microbial content should be <100 colonies/gram and no pathogens .No comment on difficulty to preserve clay masks.If you have have concerns run USP 51 and /or microbial content.

  • Valerie

    Member
    April 1, 2018 at 2:32 pm

    Great Thanks! 

  • chemnc

    Member
    April 1, 2018 at 2:42 pm

    Some clays have high microbial counts.

  • vjay

    Member
    April 2, 2018 at 11:19 am

    After adding preservative you need to check the Preservative Efficact Test and based on that you can finalize the shelf life.

  • Valerie

    Member
    April 2, 2018 at 1:24 pm

    Thank you!

  • doreen

    Member
    April 4, 2018 at 1:12 pm

    I read that Phenonip should be divided over both phases (e.g. 0.5% in water and 0.5% in oil phase).
    I’ve also read that because of the amphiphilic character of phenoxyethanol it’s better for the stability of the emulsion to put the Phenonip in the cool down.

    @”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
    What is your opinion on this?

    Edit: I see the formula doesn’t have a water phase. :smirk:
    I still would like to know Dr. Bob’s opinion though. 😉

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 4, 2018 at 7:05 pm

    @Doreen I think with PE based Phenonip if you have a water phase I would split and add half to water and half oil mainly due to solubility of parabens.I think adding it to the oil phase in this case should be hot and shouldn’t affect emulsion stability.

  • Valerie

    Member
    April 4, 2018 at 10:23 pm

    There is no water phase Bob, suggestions for me?  TIA! 

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 4, 2018 at 10:46 pm

    As I mentioned just add to oil phase!

  • Valerie

    Member
    April 6, 2018 at 7:32 pm

    Thanks Bob!

  • doreen

    Member
    April 7, 2018 at 7:56 am

    @”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
    Thanks a lot!! :+1:

Log in to reply.