Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup LIQUID FOUNDATION FORMULA CRITIQUE PLEASE

  • LIQUID FOUNDATION FORMULA CRITIQUE PLEASE

    Posted by marytsiang on March 29, 2018 at 12:07 pm

    I have completed a stability test in the formula, and it has already some good comments on clients who testet it. However, I think I have a pigment wetting problem, as it dries  in lighter shade. I mix in a vacuum homogenizer phase 1, then I add phase 2,phase 3 and 4 together. Finaly, I add water phase in very little flow under vacuum and mix in high speed for 30 minutes( after the emulsification happens).Here is the formula in rounded percentages,any advice about it, or the process  would really be appreciated.

    phase 1.

    Dimethicone 17,000
    Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 2,000
    PEG-10 Dimethicone 4,500
    Isododecane, Isobutylmethacrylate/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone
    Acrylate Copolymer
    3,000
    Polymethylsilsesquioxane 2,000
    Phenoxyethanol 0,900
    Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0,100
    phase 2.
    Dimethicone,Polysilicone-11, Laureth-12, 15,00
    phase 3.

    Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylysilane 1,310
    Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylysilane 0,400
    Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylysilane 0,130
    Titanium Dioxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 6,580
    phase 4.  
    Mica, Triethoxycaprylysilane

    4,580
    Phase 5.

     
    Aqua 35,900
    Glycerin 5,000
    Sodium Chloride 1,000
    marytsiang replied 5 years, 12 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • gld010

    Member
    March 29, 2018 at 3:07 pm

    I had a similar issue, my W/Si emulsion concealer had a different drying color. Try Kobo TTB pigments or dispersions: http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Downloads/Kobo-TTB.pdf

  • gld010

    Member
    March 29, 2018 at 3:47 pm

    You can also try a wetting agent like C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (liponate NEB, finsolv TN).

  • mixc

    Member
    April 1, 2018 at 4:13 am

    Try pre dispersing your pigments with a silicone fluid and passing them through a three-roll mill. I would also suggest to homogenize the pre dispersion with your Silicone/Elastomer + Emulsifier Phase till optimum smoothness is achieved.

    Also in my opinion, the PE-9010 preservative blend would be better added to your water phase as this is a W/Si preparation. 

  • marytsiang

    Member
    April 2, 2018 at 2:00 pm

    Thank you very much @mixc and @gld010..
    @mixc I passed the challenge test via adding the preservatives in the silicon phase, but you are right. I should add them at the end of the process of at the water phase.

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