Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Solubilizing allantoin: betaine works great!

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  • Solubilizing allantoin: betaine works great!

    Posted by doreen on November 19, 2017 at 4:07 pm

    I would like to share with you that betaine (trimethylglycine, not cocamidopropyl) works great in dissolving higher % of allantoin (and salicylic acid, but haven’t tested that yet).
    Since there is no hard data available, you’ll need to experiment.
    So far I’ve found that 3% betaine easily keeps 1% allantoin dissolved in my body lotion formula below. It’s a light lotion that isn’t greasy feeling and absorbs very quick.
    Actually I wanted it to be a bit thicker, but I’m still waiting for Sepimax Zen™ , which I ordered from The Formulary in England. (Maybe the 1% caprylyl glycol is too high?)
    It’s because of the Lactil® in this formula that I can’t use my Carbopol® Ultrez 10. I think the Ultrez 10 can handle that bit of chelator though, right?

    BODY LOTION

    Water Phase
    Deionized water ad 100
    2%    Glycerin
    0.2% Dermofeel® PA-3 (sodium phytate, aqua, alcohol)
    2%    Niacinamide
    1%    Allantoin
    3%    Betaine
    0.5% Phenonip®

    Oil Phase
    5%    Glyceryl Stearate + PEG 100 Stearate
    2%    Shea Butter
    2%    Cetyl Alcohol
    2%    Behenyl Alcohol
    2%    Lexfeel® 350 (Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters)
    1%    Isopropyl Myristate
    4%    Babassu Oil, refined
    1%    Caprylyl Glycol
    0.2% Tocopherol (alpha)
    0.5% Phenonip
    ®
    0.4% Xanthan Gum

    Cool Down Phase
    2%    Cyclopentasiloxane
    0.3% Bisabolol (alpha, natural)
    3%    Evening Primrose Oil, unrefined
    5%    Lactil® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea;
    Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid)
    0.4% Fragrance (Sleeping Angels by Brambleberry)

    drbobverdient-biz replied 6 years, 4 months ago 3 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    November 19, 2017 at 5:48 pm

    Nice and Ultrez 10 should be okay as long as the Ph is above 5.

  • doreen

    Member
    November 20, 2017 at 6:04 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    You mean it’s even ok with 5% Lactil®? (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid)
    I don’t know exactly how much elektrolytes it can deal with, but it would be awesome if it can handle the chelator + the Lactil!

  • em88

    Member
    November 20, 2017 at 3:20 pm

    What is the purpose of Lactil in the formulation?  

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    November 20, 2017 at 3:58 pm

    @Doreen81/em88  If you are using Lactilfor moisturizing, why so much for a leave on product? Evonik shows cleanser(wash off) using 1%  carbomer 140G for viscosity?

  • doreen

    Member
    November 21, 2017 at 5:01 am

    @em88
    It’s a blend of humectants for hydration (N.M.F.).

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    It’s the max of the recommended dose (1-5%). Would you suggest a lower % for hydration?
    I don’t know the electrolyte sensitivity of the different carbomers and Evonik never uses more than 2% Lactil in their formula suggestions.

    (I forgot to mention that betaine is very hygroscopic, I store it with silica bags)

  • em88

    Member
    November 21, 2017 at 8:08 am

    Yeah, but 5% of a blend with 10 ingredients means you can find only traces of those ingredients :) I tend to believe, after a few months, urea will be transformed in NH3 and you will notice a slightly increase of pH. 
    Why not go for a much cheaper humectants? 

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    November 21, 2017 at 3:26 pm

    You should not get NH3 liberated at low ph but I would change to one of the Croda humectants such as Lactamide MEA at 1-2% and use Ultrex 10.

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