Solubilizing allantoin: betaine works great!

DoreenDoreen Member
edited November 2017 in Formulating
I would like to share with you that betaine (trimethylglycine, not cocamidopropyl) works great in dissolving higher % of allantoin (and salicylic acid, but haven't tested that yet).
Since there is no hard data available, you'll need to experiment.
So far I've found that 3% betaine easily keeps 1% allantoin dissolved in my body lotion formula below. It's a light lotion that isn't greasy feeling and absorbs very quick.
Actually I wanted it to be a bit thicker, but I'm still waiting for Sepimax Zen™ , which I ordered from The Formulary in England. (Maybe the 1% caprylyl glycol is too high?)
It's because of the Lactil® in this formula that I can't use my Carbopol® Ultrez 10. I think the Ultrez 10 can handle that bit of chelator though, right?

BODY LOTION

Water Phase
Deionized water ad 100
2%    Glycerin
0.2% Dermofeel® PA-3 (sodium phytate, aqua, alcohol)
2%    Niacinamide
1%    Allantoin
3%    Betaine
0.5% Phenonip®

Oil Phase
5%    Glyceryl Stearate + PEG 100 Stearate
2%    Shea Butter
2%    Cetyl Alcohol
2%    Behenyl Alcohol
2%    Lexfeel® 350 (Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters)
1%    Isopropyl Myristate
4%    Babassu Oil, refined
1%    Caprylyl Glycol
0.2% Tocopherol (alpha)
0.5% Phenonip®
0.4% Xanthan Gum

Cool Down Phase
2%    Cyclopentasiloxane
0.3% Bisabolol (alpha, natural)
3%    Evening Primrose Oil, unrefined
5%    Lactil® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid)
0.4% Fragrance (Sleeping Angels by Brambleberry)
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Comments

  • Nice and Ultrez 10 should be okay as long as the Ph is above 5.
  • @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    You mean it's even ok with 5% Lactil®? (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid)
    I don't know exactly how much elektrolytes it can deal with, but it would be awesome if it can handle the chelator + the Lactil!
  • What is the purpose of Lactil in the formulation?  

  • Doreen81/em88  If you are using Lactilfor moisturizing, why so much for a leave on product? Evonik shows cleanser(wash off) using 1%  carbomer 140G for viscosity?
  • DoreenDoreen Member
    edited November 2017
    @em88
    It's a blend of humectants for hydration (N.M.F.).

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    It's the max of the recommended dose (1-5%). Would you suggest a lower % for hydration?
    I don't know the electrolyte sensitivity of the different carbomers and Evonik never uses more than 2% Lactil in their formula suggestions.

    (I forgot to mention that betaine is very hygroscopic, I store it with silica bags)
  • Yeah, but 5% of a blend with 10 ingredients means you can find only traces of those ingredients :) I tend to believe, after a few months, urea will be transformed in NH3 and you will notice a slightly increase of pH. 
    Why not go for a much cheaper humectants? 
  • You should not get NH3 liberated at low ph but I would change to one of the Croda humectants such as Lactamide MEA at 1-2% and use Ultrex 10.
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