How many hydrolysed proteins have been tested in shampoo? I can immediately think of several: keratin, wheat, rice, soya, oats. I tried making hydrolysed oatmeal myself and was very happy with the result.
But what about other proteins? EG gram flour, millet flour, there must be a whole catalogue of grains from different countries that could be tried.
The thing is, it is beginning to look to me as if you can add a lot of organic material to a shampoo and the results can be very impressive. Softness and shine are markedly improved.
I think I will set about obtaining a good variety of grains, hydrolyse them, and see if I can begin some basic research on the topic.
First of all though. By weight, raw oats are 66% carbohydrates, 17% protein, 7% fat and 11% fiber. So why are we saying "hydrolysed protein"? What happens to the carbs (if anything) during hydrolysis? At the very least, adding "hydrolysed oat protein" probably means adding 66% carbs and 11% fiber as well. Not to mention the fat.
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They are broken down into sugars.
Van Nostrand’s Scientific Encyclopedia
The hydrolysis (of oats, at least) takes place with a quite dilute solution. Perhaps the carbs remain as carbs. I suspect this is true because after neutralising the product, the appearance is of "liquid oats" it has the same colour, no unpleasant smell really.
I've got to go shopping this morning so I will look for a few likely grains in the supermarket...
I have a strong suspicion that the beneficial effects are not just derived from the protein component.
Some are saying that proteins are stable enough to go to a heated phase, moreover, they must be heated to avoid contamination of the final product.
And some are saying that proteins have to go in at the end of formulation, cold... Which one is correct?
Same story about Hyaluronic acid and about D-panthenol!
Confused! Could someone clarify this? Please!
As far as when you add them it's important to know why ingredients are added at the temperature they're added at.
All things being equal you would add ingredients at room temperature. However, formulas are heated for a few reasons:
1. Heating speeds up the time it takes to incorporate some ingredients
2. Heating melts ingredients that have a melting point higher than RT
3. Heating helps make oil phase particles smaller for a more stable emulsion
But some ingredients will chemically change when heated. Ingredients like formaldehyde donor preservatives will convert to formaldehyde too quickly so they lose effectiveness. Some of the components of the fragrance will evaporate off so the product won't smell right. Some proteins or enzymes will chemically denature if heated too high. Many botanicals will chemically degrade if heated too high.
So, ingredients like fragrances, heat-sensitive preservatives, and active ingredients are all added at cooler temperatures.
To your specific question about hydrolyzed proteins, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid. I say it doesn't matter at all. Hydrolyzed proteins are already broken down so heating them won't have any effect on their performance. Panthenol is not heat sensitive and neither is Hyaluronic acid.
Heating (>70C) only causes panthenol to racemize (especially if you heat it for a longer time, just prior to emulsification isn't a problem I think). And it's only the D isomer that is converted into panthothenic acid in the skin. Both isomers do have hydrating properties however, so I agree with Perry that you won't notice a difference.
@Belassi
I'd love to hear more about your grain hydrolysis adventures.
So you did try quinoa. In @David08848 's post I suggested it (the shaving cream ingredient), but didn't know you'd already tried it.
I would also like to know if it is mostly the protein or also the carbs in oats that have soothing properties. Oat also has about 20 unique polyphenols (avenanthramides) that seem to be soothing, anti-inflammatory. Point is, I hate the smell of hydrolyzed grains. You say liquid hydrolyzed oat doesn't have an unpleasant smell? Hmm I might embark myself on this project as well...
No, not when properly prepared. When hydrolysis takes place it produces a characteristic odour. However, the odour fades after a while. The non-neutralised product has a dark colour too. When properly neutralised the odour rapidly disappears and it regains the colour of oatmeal flour. It does not sink to the bottom in a shampoo as does oatmeal flour.